What I Am Wearing

The thing about me, is that I love blue, as you might know from previous posts, or as you might be able to tell by looking at this outfit. I mean, with the exception of the shoes, there is some form of blue in every other piece of my outfit. Some might find this excessive, but as I love it, it doesn't matter. Now what I am getting at, is that I think that a dark brown suede loafer, is just about one of the nicest pairings that you can conjure up with blue attire (just outside of burgundy shoes!). And while I don't wear these loafers as often as I should (maybe due to not wanting to ruin them), I do find myself always drawn to suede loafers when looking into shoe stores. We actually have a pair at G&H, in the Cleverley butterly loafer design, that I absolutely love, but thankfully (as I don't need more shoes or to spend any money) they don't stock my size. Nevertheless, if you are like me and love the color blue in your wardrobe, then a dark brown suede loafer is something that you should also look to own, because it will take you a long way.

Shoes: Ferragamo Tremezza line
Jacket: Burberry
Scarf: Vintage
Waistcoat: Vintage
Shirt: Some Neapolitan brand
Tie: Robert Talbott Best of Class line

Today's Favorites - Ivan Crivallero Tassel Loafers

This is a fun pair of shoes. And even though I can't say that I am the biggest fan of the pattern and colors of that fabric used (if it was on its own), I think that it is great on this pair of shoes, especially with those green tassels. I absolutely love the idea of this whole shoe and am very pleased that Mr. Ivan Crivallero, not only designed them, but made them too! It takes courage to offer shoes like this, because they are not for everyone...in reality they are not for many, mainly just the shoe freaks like me! But what's great about it, is that it represents the depth of which design can be taken, yet still be fun and relatively practical. Not that you would wear these to the office, but with a pair of chinos or jeans, they would go just perfectly! This is exactly the type of thing that I would love to design and make but know that if I did just this, it would be hard to stay afloat. But do expect to see this type of flair every now and then released in my collection, because hey, what would a shoe line be without a little fun?!

Seriously.....? What is high fashion?

The words style and fashion sure do not mix, nor do they have even close to the same meaning, as we shall learn here today. Now, one might bravely call these Christian Louboutin shoes 'high fashion objects,' but one would hopefully not venture to wear these and say that they have 'style.' Obviously, those who would buy and wear them, will undoubtedly think that they have style, but oh how wrong they will be. I am beginning to think that the high fashion artists of the world have ran out of clever ideas to create so they just create the most ostentatious things that they can think of and call it fashionable. I really believe that as the days go on, these two words grow further apart from each other, when in reality I believe that in their truest forms, they should go hand-in-hand. The definition of fashion is: a prevailing custom or style of dress, etiquette, socializing. It's like when Tommy Nutter, one of the most famous designers from Savile Row, came about. He revolutionized the lapel, making it bold and beautiful. Wearing his stuff was not only fashionable, but took someone with style to pull off. Where do you think Tom Ford got his inspiration (and designs)? Tommy Nutter! So...when I look at shoes like this, I shake my head in disappointment, thinking about how someone who would design this could be so famous???? 

Shoes -- Part 2: Style & Terminology -- Loafers/Slip On's

Among the more casual forms of dress shoes within the shoe industry are the lovely non-laced loafer shoes (or slip-on's). Although the origin of loafers most likely trace back to way before the internet might tell me, the popularity of them came about around the 1930's, when Norwegian shoemakers were exporting these moccasin like shoes to the rest of Europe. Apparently American tourists took a liking to them and Esquire magazine did a feature on them, enticing G.H. Bass to come out with their own version, called 'Weejun' (hence the name sounding like Norwegian). From that point on, they seemed to skyrocket in popularity with slit-strapped loafers being made and heavily worn by East Coast school prep's who put pennies into the slit. From this trend, the term Penny Loafer (a version pictured above, by Septieme Largeur) came about, and seems to remain strong to this day. Now days we have all types of loafers and here I will begin to show all of you which ones are which. If I forget any, please feel free to add to the commentary.

Butterfly Loafers

I had never known (or maybe had never thought about) the butterfly loafer before moving to England. Then again, this place has made me more conservative (not in thinking) in the year that I have been here and because of that I might have not even taken a second look at them prior to 2010, even if I had known about them. But nevertheless, I am glad that my views have changed, as I find them to be one of the nicer loafers in circulation. This pair here, a bespoke model by Gaziano & Girling, is slightly different than the way it is usually portrayed, in it's classic sense, and that is without the brogueing on the straps. The butterfly loafer is said to have been created by Mr. George Cleverley himself and I must say that my hat is tipped to him, for I look at this and still see a loafer that is not only unique but elegantly timeless. This is one model of shoe that is surely on my to-get list!

Tassel Loafers

I tell you, there was nothing that I hated more than tassel loafers when I was young, and that is partly because I come from the States. Probably everyone can picture the guy who is wearing a baggy suit with those Cole Haan pinch tassel loafers (as we speak I am desperately trying to find a picture on Google of this, with no luck!), the ones that are super ugly with crappy leather and no shape at all. Anyway, this idea of wearing tassel loafers was ruined for me until I moved to Italy and saw how a man who knew how to dress well could pair his tassel loafers with his outfit and make them look quite nice, so long as they were not those shitty ones loved by American businessman. Surely you know what I am talking about? Anyway, I love them now, so long as they are done well, as the pair above are, by Saint Crispins.

Whole Cut Loafers

Whole cut loafers are among my favorite type of loafers, being that they have that minimalist look to them, which is strange, as I am by no means a minimalist. I don't know. My tastes change everyday anyway. Tomorrow my favorites will be apron toed loafers......Back onto subject. I like them. They are simple, elegant and let's not forget, cool (like these crazy banana yellow ones by Scarpe di Bianco). I believe that it takes a real shoe freak to like these, which is probably why you don't find them often being offered by shoe brands. When on, they look like a boot, which most people don't like to give that impression, especially when dressing in a suit. But when you have your inseam taken up to the point that the bottom of your trousers sit (with no break) on the top of your shoe with an opening of 14 inches, as I do, then you get to see the whole shoe, with no mistakes about it!

Prince Albert Loafers

Popularized -- at least one would think considering the name -- by Prince Albert, who was a great sartorialist, the Prince Albert loafer is now what we think of when using dress slippers for the house to wear in velour and pair with our smoking jackets while drinking Loius XIII (Cognac). At least that's what you see in the Ralph Lauren ads. But I like to think of them differently, like the one that I made, in brown, directly to your left. I hope to see these one day made with thicker soles and being worn on a daily basis as I think that they give the daring man a chance to be fun at throwing a nice, contrasting color of sock with this outfit, you know....to spice things up. (BTW, these are also a version of the whole cut loafer, but having a much larger opening for your foot)

Shoe By: Del Toro

Pumps

Pumps, you will find, are generally a shoe that you wear for formal occasions and will find them in some sort of patent leather form, as is the one at the top by Dimitri Bottier. But when one wants to be fun, you can find them in all sorts of arrangements, like these ostrich pumps by Barker Black. They are a fun shoe, but can really one be worn in certain environments, at least for most. I wouldn't mind wearing them regularly, but then again, traveling to the SE of London most days, I might find myself in some predicaments...that was a joke, just in case you are traumatized. Moving swiftly on...pumps, I believe, got their name from their construction, which if the shoe is bespoke or high end, should be a pump stitch. Now, I know what this word is, but I have no idea what it means. I am pretty sure that it is some way of stitching the sole directly to the insole -- by hand. But if you read the Carreducker's blog and type in pump-stitch to their search bar, you will find a much better explanation, I am sure. 

Kilty Loafers

It should be easy to see where this name derives, as it is so clearly evident. Kilty loafers are usually something that you will see paired with tassels, but have been recently popularized by the likes of Italian shoemakers to make in other versions, such as this one here, by Riccardo Bestetti. I don't really have much to say on these. Some I like, some I hate. To me they are strictly a shoe that is for fun, as I don't see them as professional. I would rather wear them with jeans...

Side Gusset Shoes (AKA lazy man's oxford - which is a loafer)

Aaawww, the side gusset shoe. Not sure that I could ever like this, as to me, it represents something that is fake, like a pre-made bow-tie. I just have never been the person for illusions in clothing, something trying to pass off as something that it is not. I mean, don't get me wrong, the George Cleverley shoe above is beautiful, no doubt, but the side gusset with laces is just not my style. Now, on the other hand, if it did not have laces, then it would be okay, but you tend to find that the majority do, as this seems to be a new trend right now in the shoe industry, probably because many men are super lazy and can't be fussed to lace their shoes but still want the professional look of an oxford.

Anyway, there are probably variations of many other loafers, but as usual, I am tired and think that the 2+ hours that I have spent on this post is good enough. So if I have missed anything, please feel free to comment. If not, enjoy the new week into September...

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

(oh yea, I have a picture of a side gusset shoe without laces, below by Koji Suzuki --- beautiful!!)

Today's Favorites - Random's

I am in a bit of a rush this morning and could not think of a specific maker that I wanted to write about so I thought that I would just filter through my 'random' pictures folder. That being, I am will put up some shoes here, but may not 100% sure about who the maker is. For example, I believe that the stunning spat boot above is made by Aubercy, but also have this feeling that it may be a japanese maker (Correction, a reader told me that it was made by Otsaka M-5)? So, if you know, please feel free to leave a comment so that I can give credit to the maker. Nonetheless, enjoy the shoe porn, have a great Wednesday and I will be back tomorrow for a stronger post. Now that the Paris trip posts are done, I will get back to doing my "Shoes" posts on Mondays, next week explaining everything about the term 'brogue.'

Above: Ivan Crivellaro 

Above: Christian Louboutin

Above: Officina Patina

Above: Mario Rubinacci

Above: Olivier Guyot For Walter Steiger

Above: Tom Ford

Shoes Of The Week - Random Mark McNairy's

I really love what Mark McNairy has done in the shoe industry. In what used to be a relatively dull, no-color ridden market, Mark McNairy decided to do something about it and launched his line, emphasizing this prep-chic style (loafers, heavy brogues and buck's) that incorporated a lot of color, particularly in the soles. And since then, he has seemed to grow at an exponential rate. And that is simply great! When coming out with something so bold, as this concept is, one would think that it is either going to make it, or break it. Luckily he made it, even with shoes as daring and colorful as a crayola box.

As I put together my first collection, I am growing insecure (even though I shouldn't) about offering classic dress shoes with colorful options (such as a full-brogue in navy or a forest green whole-cut). When you think about starting a line, you have to know that even though you may want to make all of the craziest options that you always dreamed of owning, you have to also realize that you need to make things that will sell, so that you can stay in business. This is what I appreciate about people like Mark McNairy and Mr. Hare. They both created something that they felt was missing, hit it dead on and are now growing at exponential rates. I just hope that my first collection will have this kind of impact, as I believe that I have been studying a long time, what is lacking in the current marketplace....

Some pictures provide by: The Shoe Buff

Saint Crispins Now In US

 

Thanks to stores like Leather Soul and Leffot, the shoe aficionados around the US are able to find the shoes that they have always dreamed of owning without having to fly to the nearest country to get them. They are now in their backyard. A brand that has been getting a lot of attention lately, particularly on my blog, called Saint Crispins, is now going to be available at the much beloved Leather Soul stores around the US. Although the website did not specify, I would imagine that they will be carried at both the Honolulu and Beverly Hills locations. While I could not even afford these shoes, as they are in the range of 1000 Euros (this leaves me curious to their $ cost), I am quite pleased to know that people in the States will now have easier access to the brand, as I believe that they make beautiful shoes, and would love to see people wearing them. 

Always trying to do too many things at once, as I was writing this prior bit I checked to see their other stockists, and it would appear that they are also being sold at the US website Mad About Town, at a whopping $1800 per pair price range. WOW!! That's more than John Lobb!! Well, I can't wait to start seeing this being talked about on Style Forum and am eagerly curious to know how they feel, because at that price, they better be close to bespoke comfort. Nevertheless, it's good to see them around, and I will look forward to their hopeful progression.

Pictures from Leather Soul below:

Pictures from Mad About Town below:

Shoes Of The Week - Crocodile Loafers By Bestetti

Using crocodile (or alligator) on a pair of shoes, is most likely one of those things that you either love or absolutely hate. I have always had a mixed feeling, where on some shoes I think it looks atrocious, and on others, I could not see it done better. This loafer, by Bestetti, would fall into the latter category. I do find crocodile to be on the ostentatious side of the leather spectrum, so do find it quite appealing when a shoemaker is able to tame it down, by pairing it with a fairly conservative style, such as this tassel loafer. And while I do believe that this style of loafer, would look good with any type of leather, due to the beauty of it's shape and proportions, it is suited quite well with this particular skin. The only problem with crocodile and alligator, is that they are so damn expensive, thus not allowing for the average man to be able to afford it, even if he wanted to. This then resorts to people buying faux croc, which to me is the most atrocious thing that could possibly be added to a shoe. So, while I appreciate seeing a beautiful crocodile shoe, such as this one, it pains me at the same time, knowing that it might be a good while before I can see one gracing my feet....

Enjoy the rest of your Sunday!!

-- Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Easter Vacation & Today's Favorites - Alfred Sargent

To all of my readers,


I just wanted to let you know that I will be away on a short holiday trip to Italy from Friday to Monday and will not be around computer access. So I am sorry that until Tuesday the 26th there will not be any new posts, but this is a good time to read through my archives to see if there is any valuable information or some great shoe porn that you have yet read/seen. Until then, I will leave you with a couple of pics of cool shoes from Alfred Sargent. Have a great Easter weekend to all those who celebrate it and to the rest, have a wonderful weekend.


Sincerely,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

P.S. To all those who have written me or commented on posts, I have not forgotten about you and I will respond as soon as I get a chance. Sorry for the delay....