My 7th Self-Made Bespoke Pair

As many of you may know, I have been away for the last 3 days, making a pair of shoes for myself, hence the long time without posting nor replying to emails (for those that have mailed me, I promise that I will reply). Sorry for that delay in writing, but I had forgotten that the B&B that I stay at does not have wireless internet access, go figure... Anyway, not even sure I would have had time to post as I was slaving away trying to crank these bad boys out in that 3 day time period. But alas, they are done and looking better than ever!!

So evidently shown by the pictures, you can see that my new green shoes did not start as they look now. In fact they were a rejected upper from G&G (the Rothschild) that was cream colored, which had a couple of blemishes here and there and a few stains. Not really wanting that as my upper, I had been struggling with what I wanted to do with them. At first I was thinking the purple route, but quickly botched that idea as I decided that I wanted something that I would probably wear a little bit more often. As I have literally captured the entire color spectrum in my shoe collection (with the exception of pink and orange, real orange that is), I have now come to the point where I am doubling up on colors. I have been keen on the idea of green shoes for awhile since I have been without my Sassetti's for quite some time now, as they are sitting in a storage box just screaming to get out. Therefore, I decided to give it a go as I saw that the local cobbler was selling green leather dye and the rest is history...

Being that this was my first real patina that I was going to create (with dye and all), I wanted it to be fun and unique. I decided that as I had made the sole black, I was going to use black as the background color, to give it somewhat of an antiqued look. I started this by blacking-out the perforations in the upper with a sharpie (permanent marker). This ended up being great and looked so good that I was almost tempted to just shine it, leave it cream-colored and call it a day. But my urge for green got the best of me, and I decided to push on.

So, I took out my dyes (green and black), mixed them and began applying it with a sponge, rubbing it in circular motions to not get any blotching going on. I emphasized the toes and heels by actually applying too much, which left it black looking from the effect of the leather getting too wet. After spreading it around, I began to use the little applicators that they provided with the dyes that I purchased. There were actually two different ones, which ended up being perfect as one was good for spreading around and the other good for getting in small places, like underneath the gimping (piranha tooth like design on the brogue detailing) and in the welt area. After I had applied the dye and it was done, I let it sit awhile before I started to add my navy shoe polish to it, to really bring up the colors and darken it a bit. And boy, did it work. For being my first time ever doing a real patina, I was quite pleased with the way it turned up. Those 3 days work and 30-something hours, now paid off....

Shoes Of The Week - Septieme Larguer's Colored Shoes

In any industry, you can only do so many different things until you have to start repeating yourself. Yet, to this day, the shoe industry has not truly gone all out, when it comes to using unique coloring for their shoe styles. Maybe, this will always be that way, as business professionals will always need dark shoes to wear to work? Or maybe, one day, with the help of brands like Septieme Largeur, the world can become a little bit more colorful at the feet? Who knows in reality, but it's good to see that certain brands are stepping away from traditional conservatism and opting for more unique offerings, bringing more color into their collections. This is also what I hope to do with my line. While I obviously need to sell shoes that can encompass the needs of the general public, there will definitely be capsule collections and other models that will appeal to the shoe freaks of the world, for those who thrive on things that stand apart from the rest. This is why I have come to love Septieme Largeur so much, for their balance in traditional styles, but with detailed differences in colorways and patinas.

Saint Crispins Now In US

 

Thanks to stores like Leather Soul and Leffot, the shoe aficionados around the US are able to find the shoes that they have always dreamed of owning without having to fly to the nearest country to get them. They are now in their backyard. A brand that has been getting a lot of attention lately, particularly on my blog, called Saint Crispins, is now going to be available at the much beloved Leather Soul stores around the US. Although the website did not specify, I would imagine that they will be carried at both the Honolulu and Beverly Hills locations. While I could not even afford these shoes, as they are in the range of 1000 Euros (this leaves me curious to their $ cost), I am quite pleased to know that people in the States will now have easier access to the brand, as I believe that they make beautiful shoes, and would love to see people wearing them. 

Always trying to do too many things at once, as I was writing this prior bit I checked to see their other stockists, and it would appear that they are also being sold at the US website Mad About Town, at a whopping $1800 per pair price range. WOW!! That's more than John Lobb!! Well, I can't wait to start seeing this being talked about on Style Forum and am eagerly curious to know how they feel, because at that price, they better be close to bespoke comfort. Nevertheless, it's good to see them around, and I will look forward to their hopeful progression.

Pictures from Leather Soul below:

Pictures from Mad About Town below:

Today's Favorites - Green Monks by Gaziano & Girling

 

While I can't really say that I am the biggest advocate of the toe shape, it's the color paired with the style that is really drawing me to this model by Gaziano & Girling. As mentally sick as this sounds, I am at the point where I own a shoe in every color possible (with the exception that will forever be pink or proper orange) and now I need to start acquiring my second pair of them (we all have our obsessions...). That being, I am currently in the slow process of making this full brogue, that is off white, and am having thoughts of stripping it down and re-dying green, in a similar nature to the color of this shoe pictured here. I really feel like a dark forest green such as this, can look extremely elegant with a nice navy or gray suit and while I am still waiting to get my green pair back from the States, I figured that I would make one in the meantime to start wearing before this sun goes away. 

The reason that I put this shoe, not only because I like it and the color, is because there was a curiosity on Style Forum on how green shoes by G&G come out after they have been finished. This curiosity came about as I put up a picture of one of their green monks in production (where it looked a lot lighter in color) in my 'trip to the G&G factory post.' Many people felt that the green was too light and therefore a little ostentatious but as you all can see here, while this style may be a bit forward for some, the color is pleasantly elegant for everyone!

Today's Favorites - Lodger

 

A cap toe with a high-shined cap is always a pleasant thing to see, but when you then add the color green into the mix, it becomes even cooler!! I was just in at Lodger's today and saw some of the new samples that they want to put into production and I was quite impressed. This model here is looking to come in a gray as well as a burgundy, two beautiful options on the color scale. Another exciting model was a wing-cap laced derby boot, that was black but had contrast white stitching. Come to think of it, I just now realized that I had my camera on me and failed to take a picture. What a slacker I am!! Well, I apologize for my absentmindedness but you will have to take my word in regards to the amazingness (I know that this is not a word, but who cares) of the boot. I can't imagine that it wouldn't make it into production, so you will have to be on the look out for it! 

Back to the shoe at hand. You don't see to many green shoes these days but it is always nice when you do. This model here is a great example of having a shoe that can be a different color but not be ostentatious or overly colorful. I really don't see why any businessman could not wear this with a navy suit? It certainly would not scream out, 'look, I am super flashy,' but would on the other hand, in my opinion, say that the gentlemen was a sharp dresser. But hey, baby steps right?? Let's start to see those navy dress shoes on the feet of lots of men before we can start asking for green to be a normal colored shoe.....

Today's Favorites - Cole Haan

 

While I can't say that I am the biggest fan of the shape of this shoe, having seen them in person, I am truly pleased that in the past two seasons, Cole Haan has made a big effort to re-introduce the saddle shoe into mainstream footwear. Not only did they provide all of the classic colorways, but they also managed to add some other unique combinations such as the lime green suede with faux croc as well as the canvas options, which I am quite keen on, particularly the navy w/ brown saddle.

While I always felt that Cole Haan did not aim to please my age group of customer, I feel that with the introduction to Spring/Summer 2011, they might have taken another direction, now creating shoes that appeal to the younger, stylish man (late 20's to early 40's). I have noticed that the clothing and shoe industries in general have been doing this lately. Only a few years ago, it seemed to me that every company's target audience was the more affluent matured man (late 30's to early 50's), a little bit more conservative and less flashy. While both have their pluses and minuses, I am happy to see a little bit more color being used and throwback shoe styles, such as the saddle!

Shoes Of The Week - Septieme Largeur

I have really gotten into penny loafers lately, and have been desperately wanting to get a 'classic' pair. But the only problem is that I am extremely picky when it comes to the right penny loafer and having a shape that is dead-on to what I like. I am definitely not a fan of the old-school models of penny loafers, such as the classic Bass Weejun or Cole Haan Pinch Penny, those to me should be abolished or strictly used as part of the uniform dressing at preppy ivy-league schools in the States. They are just so outdated to me. This pair, on the other hand, is exactly what I like and want! It has all of the perfect qualities: it's classic looking, elongated in just the right amount, tapered, and has not only a unique tongue but a different shaped 'penny' slit. For those that have not caught on from prior posts, Septieme Largeur, is a sub-brand of Markowski, specialized in shoes that have a hand-finished patina. And what is great about there model here, is that it would look good with the right suit, but also go great with a nice pair of jeans. It's elongated, tapered look gives it an elegance that allows you to dress it up, but also dress it down, assuming that you pair it with the proper pieces! Versatility is key!

Customer's Shoes - And My Shine

Working my concession at Gieves & Hawkes for the last 2 months now, has brought me a few shoes to shine. Unfortunately, most of them are boring black shoes, the typical London businessman type. Not that I am complaining, because some shoes are better than no shoes but it's always nice to get something different. So when I finally did have a customer that gave me something a little out of the ordinary (and right up my alley), I was eager to see what I could do for them. The first pair that you see above and directly below were actually a pair of my co-workers shoes: a green, braided tassel loafer. My friend being kind of a dandy, wanted me to add a little bit of color to them. So I thought that I would add some blue to really bring out a nice patina. Unfortunately I completely forgot to take a 'before' picture, but as you can imagine, they had lost of lot of their life and looked pretty dull, before I laid my hands on them.

 

The two directly above are shoes that a wonderfully dressed gentleman from Greece, who happened to be passing through London and managed to stumble upon my service, dropped off for me, to give them my 'artisan mirror shine.' When I received these, I was quite eager to see the end results. It truly makes a huge difference in how a shoe turns out by the quality of the leather and considering that the shoes on the left were a lovely pair of chukka boots by Edward Green and the one's on the right were a pair of bespoke shoes from makers (whom I do not know of?? -- Correction: look at the first comment for info) in Rome, I was in for a treat! 

 

Thankfully they turned out quite well, as you can see, and the customer was so pleased that he also left me to do his Edward Green "Shannon" boots, that were just to die for!! It was so nice to see what a polish can do for a color that is not black. It can truly transform the shoe! While none of the shoes that I shined looked bad when I got them, they sure looked amazing when I was done with them (not to toot my own horn) and that was thanks to the lovely wax polish that I use and the wonderfully great leather that I was working with. The only downfall to giving shines to beautiful shoes, is the amount of jealousy I feel afterward, knowing that I do not get to keep the shoes! I await the day I am brought a pair of Corthay shoes.....

Before:

After:

P.S. The smudge-looking thing on the picture above, near the stitching, was not actually there, it must be some effect of the lighting couple with the flash from my camera.