Today's Favorites - Allen Edmonds Randoms

I have always appreciated Allen Edmonds. While many of their styles, could be considered on the 'old-manish' side of the design spectrum, they still do make many cool and wearable shoes, such as the one's posted here. But one thing that you start to notice, when you handle many bespoke or higher-end shoes, such as John Lobb or G&G, is that the leather quality and construction are not the only things that separate the price-points. The attention to detail, is what does it for me. While these shoes, are indeed nice, they definitely lack that shape (those immaculate curves), that truly represents the foot. This leads me to believe that the lasts they use are pretty shapeless, like a blob. But if you look at the lasts of say G&G, they have curves that play not only into the shape of the foot, but draw out the beauty of the pattern (style of the shoe) as well. This is one way you can tell an expensive shoe from a cheap one. In my quest to start my shoe line, I hope to change this, but I can imagine that altering the lasts of an existing factory's stock (or creating new one's), will only add to the tooling costs, which will add to your cost of production and which inevitably make your retail price higher. As always, there are reasons why things are the way they are, but we shall try to change that....

Shoe Pricing - From Cost of Production to Retail Price

The hardest thing about starting a shoe line, or really just starting your business plan to a shoe line, is coming up with the price that you want to sell your shoes at, retail value. There are so many factors that will dictate what that final price will be, factors that you might never have thought about before, like the fact that retailers will mark up a shoe's wholesale price 2-3 times over (e.g. wholesale price = $100, retail price would be = $200-$300). But those are just the two end prices, let alone the cost of production versus the cost of what, me, the shoe designer, would pay the factory, for each pair. This is what I am going through right now, as I decide where I want to make my shoes (Italy vs. England) and how I am going to be able to do my best to balance price vs quality. Because all in all, I want to make a good quality, goodyear welted shoe, that can last a good amount of time for my customers, but at the same time don't want them to retail at way above the common man's price range. This dilemma is a big one, and has made me realize why some shoes are indeed, very expensive.











Shoes at Top of Page: Allen Edmonds
Shoes Above: Grenson

In my opinion, globalization is the reason that I, and many other designers/makers are having or had this same problem. If you can remember, there used to be a number of fantastic shoemakers in the US, that made good quality shoes, such as Florsheim and Johnston & Murphy. But now, due to the amount of cheap labor and materials, many of those same companies decided to take that lower-priced route and shirked on their quality of labor and materials, thus resulting in shit shoes. Granted, there were a couple of American makers that stood their ground, such as Allen Edmonds and Alden, but even now, you can see where the quality is slowly deteriorating on Allen Edmond's models, or you will find the same quality, but the price has gone up and you no longer get a pair of extra laces, nice shoe bags or some sort of shoe horn. It's just the shoes and some cloth that they wrap the shoe around. So when you wonder why shoes are so expensive these days, thank globalization for it, because in reality, the high quality, goodyear welted shoes that you think should be cheaper, in fact should not! Grenson, for example, can make a beautiful, well-made shoe, but they have now chosen to re-evaluate their company, and with that decided to start mass producing by having shoes made in India, with either glued or blake stitched soles so that they could retail at $300-$400. Because their high end goodyear welted shoes, would sell for 350-450 GBP, which would then result to around $700. It's not a bad thing, it just is what it is. Companies want to stay afloat, and unfortunately because of the way the world is right now, that's what they have to do.

Shoes Above: Stefano Bemer

Back to my dilemma. I am sitting here thinking, 'Okay, for my customer, I want to make a high styled shoe. Something classic but with a modern touch yet it is absolutely pertinent that I make a good quality shoe or else I would just be a complete hypocrite.' This is what I tell myself. But then, I am stuck with knowing that it will cost me around 120 GBP (minimum) to buy a goodyear welted shoe with high quality leathers from a British factory (and who knows what it actually cost them to make it?). Then let's say that I only want to make 50 GBP profit on each pair. (That's not asking too much now!) That would mean that my wholesale price would be 170 GBP to sell to retailers. So let's say that I sell it to retailer X in London. Their price would at least be 425 GBP. You might say that this is not a lot, and when comparing it to a pair of John Lobbs, it's not a super high price in reality. But now, considering that the British pound is the strongest form of currency and it's market will only be a small part of my business, we have to take into account what that same 170 GBP wholesale shoe would sell for around the world. So now let's assume that retailer Y in the States wants to buy my shoes (and the x-rate is 1.6 dollars to the British pound). That would make my wholesale price at $272 which would then make the retail price $680 and that does not even take into account the tariffs that US custom's is going to tag on. So, to make a simple goodyear welted shoe, with some nice leather that will last the average man around 10-20 years with re-soles, you are looking at 425 GBP or around $700. How many people can afford $700 or 425 GBP shoes? That's my dilemma!










Shoes Above: John Lobb

Today's Favorites - Random's

Shoes Above: Martegani

Shoes Above: Tricker's

Shoes Above: Tom Ford

Shoes Above: Allen Edmonds

Shoes Above: Crockett & Jones for Brooks Brothers

Well, I figured that I would give you a little bit of color that I don't usually put on here. I actually really like it when makers create something in green. It can really look good if done properly. The Tom Ford is particularly nice, not only because of it's deep, forest green but also because of the aesthetics of it: large tassel, tight waist, long split-toe etc. I own one green dress shoe by Silvano Sassetti and I am anxiously waiting to acquire another, either by creating one or getting one of those olive colored Edward Green boots! 

White shoes on the other hand, I have not been such a big fan of lately. I like the look of them but have always been hesitant to wear them. This could very well be that because before I lived in rainy Enlgand, I lived in rainy Seattle. So, in reality, I have never lived in a place that would give me ample opportunity to put them to use, which most likely subconsciously put me off. But I really do like the two styles above!

Pictures Of Green Shoes Courtesy Of: Style Forum

Our Toe Choices - What A Shame!

Why is it that so many men around the world love such vulgar shoes with toe shapes that look like they could kill a cockroach hiding in the corner or others that look like they just received 'the chop' from the guillotine? This is one thing that just boggles my mind. Do these men think that they are 'cool' and pushing the envelope with these distasteful styles? I just can't quite comprehend it!! For example take a look at the shoes below




















I mean, come on guys!! There are much more elegant options!!! These shoes are not 'cool' and they were never 'in style.' Unfortunately they had their shelf life during a sad trend but to be honest with all of you that still wear these styles, their trendiness ended about 6 years ago. Give it up already and move on to what is next, at least!

Shoes that have curvature (round toes) are a much more practical and sophisticated option. Let me give you a quick example of the difference between something that is boxy and another that has curvature. What's nicer: that boxy-looking car by Scion that looks like a lego or a car with curves like a Porsche or even just an Audi? You tell me!

So if you don't like the elongated types that are the latest trend and that you find on most Italian branded shoes then go for the more classic toe that you will see on the average Allen Edmonds or English styled shoe. And next time you are out shopping for shoes, try on a pair that look more like the following options and see how you feel when you wear them. Go ask a random women customer what she thinks if you don't believe me. She will give you a straight answer on what looks better. So here are three options that would serve a much more intelligent look: one by Allen Edmonds (Black shoe - American), one by Gaziano & Girling (Brown Wing Tip - English) and the other by Stefano Bemer (Burgundy Cap Toe - Italian).