Shoes Of The Week

Men's Shoes:  J.M. Weston

 

Picture Courtesy Of: Leffot

Lately, I have been quite stuck on boots and colorful shoes with multiple materials and I figured that it was time to go back to the other spectrum of the shoe industry that I love: the classics. Some days you have this urge to wear something bright, different or just something that you know that no one else will own, but other days provide for simplicity and elegance and nothing can quite display such characteristics finer then the classic pieces that belong in every man and woman's wardrobe. This shoe here, by J.M. Weston, is one my favorite examples of a handsomely elegant loafer. I don't think that there is one detail on this shoe that is out of place, doesn't belong or is anything less than being perfect.

Gucci - Fall/Winter 2010

Out of all of the Italian design houses, Gucci has to be my favorite. I think this is because they manage to stay classic yet are still considered a major designer label, which usually is a title that lends itself to companies that create the latest and greatest fashion statements. And not that they don't, they just do it differently. For instance, Gucci will take one of their classic shoes, like the loafer above, and create 100 different color/pattern/material options for that style, season after season, making you think that they have a new style but really it is just one of their classics with a twist. This idea of taking classic styles and giving them modern twists has always resonated with me as the most intelligent thing to do in fashion considering that everything just reinvents itself and becomes popular again (like the recent surge in Saddle shoes). Of course new ideas are great, but when a company tries to come up with the craziest, most outlandish shoes (like Prada's studded shoe) that no one has ever seen before, it can become a little absurd.















Another thing that I love about Gucci and find quite funny is how they have recently managed to become great knock-off artists. If you look carefully at these pictures you will notice that there is a Gucci version of a Van's shoe, a Creative Recreation shoe and of a Red Wing shoe. They have been doing this for a little over a year now and have been quite successful at it. And, from a business standpoint, I can't be mad at them. If something is big and is selling a lot, it only makes sense to try and ride the wave because if you can do it well and possibly better than the originator, then monetarily speaking you will be in for a good kickback. But if you don't do it well, it can possibly tarnish your image. What's great about Gucci's position in the fashion world is that I don't think they have much to worry about when it comes to tarnishing their image, which allows them to do whatever they want and knock-off whoever they want. Must be nice!!

So as you can see for their Fall/Winter 2010 selection, they have a little bit of everything, as they should. Some of these products have been out for a little while now and some are much more recent. And while Gucci never really seems to disappoint me, I am particularly pleased with what they have to offer this season. I feel like the selection is quite balanced and the styles have a little bit more of a practical feel to them, like the two boots that are just above this paragraph. There seems to be less full-on Gucci print shoes and a dedication to use actual leather on more of their styles, giving them more of a serious feel. Not that I don't like their Gucci print stuff because I would be lying if I said that I did not own a pair, but I do prefer the sleeker, nonchalant looks that they seem to be thriving on right now. All-in-all they remain the kings of Italian designer fashion, at least in my book!!

The Whole-Cut Shoe

If you look up the word elegant in Dictionary.com the first definition that it gives is:

"Tastefully fine or luxurious in dress, style, design, etc."

To me, the whole-cut dress shoe sums this definition up to a 'T.' The fact that it has no stitching (apart from the heel) leaves it completely refined and flawless. Obviously not every whole-cut ever made has fit this description but when they have been made properly, with a beautiful last shape, they are second-to-none on the stunning scale!!













Left Shoes: Gaziano & Girling
Right Shoes: Koji Suzuki

In a modern day, where dress rules are being broken all the time such as not wearing white until after labor day or only wearing patent leather shoes with a tuxedo you see that the whole-cut shoe is bending this tuxedo rule slowly by becoming the 'new' tux shoe for those who do not wish to wear patent, which is becoming the majority of people. While I love clean-looking patent leather shoes, many people (that I have had experience in helping) unfortunately do not see the practicality of buying a shoe that THEY can only wear for special occasions and therefore opt to something else that is within the same elegance level but has a larger range of functionality. Being that stitching brings out the casualness in a shoe and the whole-cut has virtually no stitching it becomes the top contender for replacing a tuxedo shoe.











Left Shoe: Saion
Right Shoe: Pierre Corthay

Coming from a shoe-making standpoint, the whole-cut style is one of the hardest, if not the hardest, style to last. For those that don't know what that means, 'lasting' is when you take the upper leather (all sewed together) and attach it to the wooden form that represents your foot. The reason why it is so difficult is because of the fact that it does not have any stitching to allow some give when pulling the leather over the last. If not done properly, it can leave gaps of space in between the upper leather and your last and when having a pair of shoes made for you it can create a spot of loose leather. However, if made properly, the way the leather of a whole-cut shoe follows the shape of the form becomes a sight of appreciation that, in my opinion, is more appealing to the eye compared to shoes that have stitching. So if you are an avid fan of dress shoes and do not have a whole-cut shoe in your wardrobe, I would say that it is time to re-evaluate your chosen styles and find yourself a nice pair!



Both Same Shoe By: Gaziano & Girling

The Return Of The Classics Part 3 - Wingtips

Whats great about wingtips, is their ability to be unique and be designed with almost an infinite array of possibilities. Their ability to be modernized has been prevalently shown in society with all of the different types of wingtips that you see these days, spreading it's style into almost every form of shoe, whether it be dress, casual, sport etc. Unlike the other classics that I have talked about, wingtips have already made their comeback and have done quite a good job of doing so. The only question is, how long will they stay popular? Considering their versatility, I would say for awhile!!!













(Left shoe: Gaziano & Girling; Right shoe: Saion)

While there is speculation on how wingtips (called 'brogues' everywhere outside of the States) came about the popular birth story is that they originated in Scotland and possibly even Ireland. In Gaelic, the word brog means 'shoe,' hence where 'brogues' comes from. Anyway, they were apparently a type of shoe that country men used to tread through their muddy and wet terrain. The holes back then (which must have been bigger) were used to drain the water that would get into the shoes so that the feet would not stay completely soaked. But then again, this is just one theory. Whatever the case, they eventually became a shoe of dress and were a big hit from the beginning to middle of the 20th century but then had a little bit of a disappearing act up until about a couple of years ago. They were considered quite a conservative shoe as well, not something that you would wear with a tux but mostly with dress attire. But like I said before, now you see them in all shapes and forms, having their style now being adopted into the likes of casual and athletic shoes.








(2 shoes by Paul Smith)

What I really like about wingtips is the fact that because of their perforations, which gives them a little bit more of a casual feeling, they look great with jeans. But as always, you have to pair the shoe and the jean just right to get a good look, not just any jean will work nor just any wingtip. But when done properly, you can get an outfit that can stand the test of time, so long as the upper part of the outfit does not manage to get butchered by the dresser . What's also great about wingtips is that they can turn an otherwise boring casual shoe into something fun. Something about the design just adds a flair that speaks style. I remember when I was selling shoes and Converse introduced their wingtip version of the Chuck Taylor slip-on with eyelets and no laces and it sold out so quickly, it was the hottest shoe around. And even still, it continues to show progress with many designers collaborating to make something different than the norm as you will see below with Vans and Comme de Garcons. To sum it all up, I am glad to see the wingtip returned and in strong form and hope that it continues to flourish as a timeless style since ultimately, that's what it is!!







































Clockwise From Top Left: Vans, Vans, Gaziano & Girling, Gerard Sene, Saion, & ts(s)

The Return Of The Classics Part 2 - Saddle Shoes

When executed well the saddle shoe can be the most stylish shoe style in existence. The sad thing about it, is that you don't hardly see them anymore and you don't see them created to their full potential. If you do see them in America, you see them in the classic form, white with a black or navy saddle but you never see them in other color forms which is where their style can really be shown. Nor do you ever see them in a more dressier form which I believe is far more elegant and stylish than the classic casual form. This is why I created my saddle shoe (pictured under my personal line) with some flair to it, to show that it can be done differently, with some style and in a dressier form that can be worn both with a suit or jeans.













Brown Shoe by: Altan Bottier
Purple Shoe by: Corthay




Saddle shoes were originally introduced in 1906 by non other than Spalding, who introduced them as a sports shoe that then became used by players of tennis and squash. However, they soon realized that there were more intelligent shoes that could be made for those sports and the saddle shoe quickly became adopted into society as a sporty day-to-day shoe. Throughout the 1950's teenagers all over America, both boys and girls, started wearing them to school and they quickly became apart of the preppy's new uniform. They were abolished in the hippie era and to this day are really only seen being worn by golfers, rich prep's in the North East and the super stylish (AKA someone like me)!



From top to bottom: Opening Ceremony, Women's saddle shoe by F-Troupe, Mark McNairy and Opening Ceremony


Classics are classics for a reason (they were once really cool) and it's time that we made them cool again! Today's standard shoes are so boring and monotone, we need to reinvent the wheel by bringing back classics like these but with a modern twist and then utilizing them into everyday society. I really feel like it would be acceptable to wear my black/red saddle shoes to a conservative work place and if not then we need to push towards a new direction so we don't always stay "America, land of the boring dressers!" Start taking chances by wearing bold shoes! Our reputation (for bad dressing) constantly precedes us and it's time for a change, lets start showing the rest of the world that Americans have style, since in all honesty, many of us do!!!














Top Shoe: Dimitri Bottier
Right Shoe: Marc Guyot

The Return Of The Classics Part 1 - Spats

There was a time when dress codes very much encompassed our societies. A time where almost everyone dressed elegantly and cared about how they presented themselves whether it was for a job interview or to just take a stroll in the street. Many of the most original and intriguing designs came from these time periods, classics that set themselves apart from the norm of what we see today yet that are somewhat forgotten in time and rarely seen anymore. One of these styles was 'The Spat'.











The term, spat, was derived from an accessory that attached to the shoe, covering the instep and ankle to protect people from soil and mud, back when there wasn't much concrete. This accessory then developed into a fashionable article of clothing that denoted the likes of the wealthy and stylish. You often saw spats in either white, gray or some sort of tan/beige. A gentleman wearing high-polished black shoes accompanied by white spats, a black cane and black top hat was usually a gentleman of wealth as this was their staple uniform. This style of fashion lasted from the late 19th century until about the 1920's where it slowly faded away from its hold on society as an elegant form of dress and sifted its way into the likes of the military, being worn by soldiers of all kinds.

















Its rare today that you see people wearing spats or even brands making any but there still are a handful of shoemakers that have preserved this style. However, it is now done in a more modern look. There is still the option of this two piece type set, as you see Johnny Depp utilizing, but now a spat boot all in one shoe is more common (as shown below). There are also versions of shoe spats where the shoe is low cut and does not have the buttons but has the idea all the same (also shown below). A return to this look would be a pleasant surprise. It is tiring seeing so many people out there dressed like bums, not caring about their appearance. Not that everyone needs to be vain but at least they should give a shit especially if they want to be taken seriously. This idea of comfort has made us all lazy and it shows! If we don't see a sudden surge in the return of spats in modern day society you can believe that I will make a whole line of these when I start my company!

(Clockwise From Top Left: Dimitri Bottier, John Lobb, Anthony Delos, & Marc Guyot)