Trying Too Hard - Baby Steps Before Leaps!

I don't know how many of you have noticed, but 2011 definitely started off as the year that bold colored shoes have become significantly more prominent in the shoe industry. For me this breakthrough is amazing, but the only downfall is that I feel that many of the shoe companies attempting to introduce more color into their shoe lines, skipped all subtlety and went straight for gaudy. Let's take Prada (pictured above), for example, who has been making all of the headway with their new tri-colored shoe with a sharp edge-cut sole trim and a one inch (2.5 cm) hemp braided sole with storm welt. Seriously??? That shit is ugly! I mean, I can appreciate the colors, but to then add all of this unnecessary stuff is just a little bit much. It's like the industry went from repressed black shoe producing to using 47 colors coupled with a space-aged sole on their shoes?? What happened to that middle step?

Obviously, 'designers' will be 'designers' but still, let's not carried away. Using colors outside of the normal spectrum for shoes should be carried out in an elegant way, or those who may have always been color-adverse, will be even more so when they see these monstrosities. Baby steps Mr. and Mrs. Designers of the world! Or else there will always be this divide between those who wear only black shoes and those who wear this crap here. It makes me wonder who they try and reach with this product. I guess that they are not looking to gain new clientele but instead only keep the one's they have happy. How do they grow, in terms of a business model? Maybe just by upping the prices? Because seeing these shoes, certainly would not make me want to go buy D&G or Prada products, it actually makes me want to avoid the store all together.



















What saddens me is that even Paul Smith, a company that I actually like, came out with some of this crap (pictured below). I mean, I don't think shoes made with reflector type looking pleather will ever be cool. And those pointy toes that could kill an ant in the corner of your room, just have to go. I know that these British companies make those, thinking that they are 'Italian style' but in reality, no Italian wears that pointy shit. They usually wear an elongated round toe, plain and simple. And who would ever think that Christmas colors would look good in a shoe (as Prada apparently did)? I could understand if they added white in there, to make the colors of the Italian flag but, they didn't, they added brown, of all the 'third' colors they could have added. It's just strange to me, it's almost like they were thinking, 'hey, let's take the three ugliest colors combined and put them into a shoe.' And viola, they achieved just that!! Now I hate to be a pessimist, but it is just strange that very few companies get it right, as the Japanese company, Saion, did in the post below. It really is not that difficult to create something different, but still have it be elegant and appealing. But hey, who am I to judge.........?

Some Pictures Courtesy Of: The Shoe Buff

No Brown In Town = Yeah Right!

In this day and age, most of the strict sartorial rules have been thrown out the window, and rightfully so! Now, don't get me wrong, some rules still apply and should never be broken but those that are so incredibly ridiculous and leave us all looking completely uniform and monotone (like 'no brown in town') are thankfully loosing their strength as the new generation of sartorialists plant their individualism into the minds of society. For too long, were things so boring. Black shoes have ruled the industry since the invention of dress shoes but mark my word, 2011 will truly define the year of color and seeing dress shoes in all shapes, colors and designs. It is no longer cool to 'fit in' and be just like everyone else, to all aspire to be Cary Grant, Steve McQueen or Gianni Agnelli. I would rather admire Andre 3000, Fred Astaire, Paul Smith, or anyone else whose outfit portrays character and thought, rather than just grabbing one of your 10 black suits, 20 white shirts, 7 blue ties, 8 black shoes and piecing those together to make a 'stylish' outfit.

Shoes Top Row: Gaziano & Girling
Shoes Bottom Row: Santoni

While living in the States, you get the feel there still are certain individuals who strictly adhere to this rule (men over 50 or crazy strict conservatives) but all-in-all, American's who are generally known as bad dressers across the world, are actually turning around to become some of the most daring, well-put together individuals around. Granted, I still think that Italians, as a whole, are the best dressed but the risk takers in the States who actually get it right, to me, are a step above the rest. Then again, these are far and few between.

While living in Italy, I noticed that this rule does not even exist. In fact, it is quite the opposite. You hardly ever see anyone wearing black shoes and to me this is how it should be. Black is so morbid and does not convey personality or character, unless of course you are going for a goth look, then you will be hitting the nail on the head. And I feel like the Italians think the same way. Color to them displays creativity and being a country deeply involved in art and romance, I feel that they blend the two together to create and choose the attire that they wear. (I may sound crazy with that last line but you would understand if you went there and saw with your own eyes)

But what truly brought me to write this, is my short time here in England. While British culture has created some of the finest and most stylish pieces a man can find in his wardrobe: tweed suits, Edward Green shoes, brogues etc., there is still a strict mentality in the way that 'it should be.' And while it is no longer forbidden to wear brown shoes for business, I feel like it is still an unwritten rule enforced by the thought police and carried out by society. I have met many men who will only wear black shoes with their suits and brown only on the weekend, because a 'gentleman' does so. What a load of crap. This old-world mentality, be it elegant and dapper, is unnecessary. A gentleman should not be defined by his shoe color or clothing attire that he wears during the week vs. the weekend, but rather how he carries himself in the clothing and shoes that he is wearing!

Just because blue shoes may compliment the color of the sea does not mean that I am going to wear them to the beach!

Food for thought.....

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Colored/Contrasting Laces

Shoes By: Markowski

When it comes to French shoemakers and French men, in general, I have to say: THEY ARE THE MOST DARING!!!! Even more so than the stylish and bold Italians, the French will do things that no one else does or even tries. A close second may be the Japanese. But where else can you find bright blue shoes paired with pink laces and actually see someone wearing these on the streets? Some of you may find these shoes and this idea ostentatious and even just plain ugly but I think that it is absolutely fantastic that there are so many people in that country who are not afraid to actually admit that they like color and will put that out there by wearing some of the wildest shoes you could ever imagine. And better yet, they are not afraid to throw some imagination into their shoe creations by adding colored laces that are completely contrasting to the rest of the shoe. The only other maker who I know that will commonly add this feature to his shoes is Paul Smith, another gentlemen not afraid to show his love of color!

Shoes Above Top Row: Corthay (both pairs)
Shoes Above Bottom Row: Left - Corthay; Right - Paul Smith

As I always preach, the smallest of details can turn something relatively boring into something exciting and unique. For instance, the Corthay shoe (above, left) would have been just another version of a black brogued-wingtip, common as any other with just a different last shape. But adding the yellow/golden ribbon laces to it just put it into a whole other category of shoe. It is no longer just some common brogue, it is now force to be reckoned with. It is unique, eye-catching and ultimately, immaculate! While it was always a handsome shoe, it became that much more handsome by the simple addition of colored ribbon laces! And as you start to pay attention you will start to notice that this idea is almost exclusive to French makers and I appreciate them that much more for their ability to step of out the box and add a dash of color into their products.

Top Shoes: Left - Rider Boot Co.; Right - Saion
Middle Shoes: Left - Markowski; Right - Stefano Bemer
Bottom Shoes: Markowski

If you are a person who appreciates coordinating colorful outfits, this feature in the shoe will add a million more possibilities to the sartorial outcomes produced from your wardrobe. How great is that!! Obviously, if you have never done this before, it might be hard the first few times because, no doubt about it, people will stare at you. The thing that you need to do is just tell yourself that they are admiring you and that you are damn stylish. And guaranteed, as long as you put two colors that go well together, you will be damn stylish and better dressed than many people out there! For those of you reading and thinking that this is emasculating and that no real macho man would do this, you are wrong! A real man, secure and confident, doesn't give a shit if others judge them negatively (for their sartorial decisions) and wears what he wants because he wants to! So don't be afraid to put your pride aside and try something daring!

Blue Suede Shoes

Shoes: Salvatore Ferragamo "Fausto"

There is something about a blue suede shoe that just speaks to me. Maybe it's because my favorite color is blue, maybe it's because they are rarely found or maybe it's because in suede, blue looks better on a shoe? While I am not sure why I am so gravitated towards them, I do know that there is nothing quite like them. It would seem that I am obviously not the only person that has had such an infatuation with them considering that this style of shoe not only influenced the title and lyrics of a song, but one in fact that is still known around the world today and is in the Rock 'N' Roll Hall of Fame. And yet while the idea of a blue suede shoe is so famously known they are still so hard to come by, the good one's at least. Considering that dark blue is not a loud nor gaudy color, I would think that such a shoe would be in the seasonal collections of shoe companies, year after year. But of course, that would be asking too much!!

Top Row (L to R): Alden (Picture Courtesy of Leather Soul), Oliver Sweeney
Bottom Row (Both): Opening Ceremony

The best thing about blue suede shoes is that they look absolutely amazing when worn casually, even if it is a suit, I would more wear it with either a nice slim-fit pair of dark denim jeans or a casual, non-creased khaki-colored pair of pants. Because of this, you are more likely to see shoe companies making blue suede shoes in either a 'buck' style or a laced boot (like a chukka or something similar the the Alden above), styles that you tend to wear more casually. While these options are nice, I much prefer to see a blue suede shoe in a dress form like that Ferragamo or the Corthay below. The aesthetic pleasure of pairing a blue suede (that is usually seen as casual) and a elegant dress model of shoe, creates a liking that for me is indescribable. The same shoe by Corthay, if made in calfskin, would still be extremely beautiful yet would not capture in the same way that it's suede counterpart seems to.

Top Row (L to R): Pierre Corthay (Picture Courtesy of Leffot), Stefano Bemer
Bottom Row (Both): Paul Smith

As I just noticed myself from writing this post, there seems to be a common trend in the styles of shoe that a company will make blue suede shoes: 1. Plain-toe derby buck's or chukka's 2. Wingtip oxfords (closed lacing) and 3. Penny loafers. Obviously you have your risk takers, like Ferragamo, who will make it in another completely different style but yet you see that they still used the wingtip influence. Come to think of it, I am not sure if I have every seen a blue suede apron or cap toe. Have you?? If so, send me a picture!! Either way, this now gives me incentive to create one and make a pair for myself and possibly even add a crepe sole to see how that looks. But anyway, if you are an avid lover of shoes and find yourself without a pair of blue suede shoes, then you know what I am going to say next: GO BUY A PAIR! 

Left: John Lobb
Right: Alberto Fasciani

My Shoes Part 3 - Paul Smith

There is nothing like a great, green pair of shoes!! I have two pairs and I love both of them. They are just so versatile. This pair by, Paul Smith, is my suede option. While this really can be worn all year long, I especially love wearing them in the Autumn. I just feel like the dark green color paired with the suede texture really corresponds to the feel of the fall and the types of shades of clothes that you tend to wear when it starts getting cold. They look especially good with a nice pair of dark denim and even look great with some casual khaki's, like shown here. The contrast stitch on them adds a little bit of flair, allowing them to not be so monotone. While the dark green is a nice alternative to the normal shoe colors, a darker shade of any color, without any additive to it (like the contrast stitch) can make it just as plain as any old black or brown shoe. Like always, I love to see shoes in colors that differ from the norm and my Paul Smith's give me a great alternative to the dark brown's and black that I tend to wear once that rain and snow start coming!!

Shoe Of The Day

How often do you see green shoes? Not very often!! And that's what I love about Paul Smith, the creator of these shoes. He is constantly coming up with unique and colorful shoes to add to his collections and while he may use a fairly common brogue like this as his staple style, what's great is that he will change it in so many ways from the color, to the leather and even the texture, for example, velour. A shoe like this can add so many more possibilities to your wardrobe and I am glad that there is someone like Paul Smith, who is so big in the shoe industry, coming up with these concoctions to continually provide us with lively options!

The Most Versatile Shoe - The Brown Full-Brogue

In a man's wardrobe, there are no pants (used for day wear) that a pair of brown full-brogues cannot compliment. You can pair them with jeans, khakis, trousers and even your suits. Not only can you wear them with all these different types of pants you can also pair them with literally every color of pant, except black. Think about all of the possibilities you can put together! Talk about a bang for you buck, right!!? It's the one-stop-shop type of shoe. However, the question is: why don't more men own a pair? Probably because in most people's limited minds, they think that black is the most versatile color and maybe that was true back in the 50's when people only wore black, gray and navy suits. But it's the 21st century and it's no longer stylish to be super conservative and only wear black shoes with navy suits, to wear old man tassel loafers and not have a brown shoe in your collection. On the contrary, IT IS ESSENTIAL to own a brown dress shoe or you have no idea of what you are doing when it comes to dressing yourself!!!









Top Pair: Gaziano & Girling
Left Pair: Edward Green, Photo Courtesy Of: Leffot
Right Pair: Edward Green, Photo Courtesy Of: Leather Soul

Like I have stated before, something about the brogueing gives it a very different feeling to the average dress shoe, a much more casual feeling. Not in the sense that it's too casual to be dressed-up with a suit but more the feeling that it's a beautiful dress shoe that can easily compliment the right pair of jeans or casual khaki type pants. The art of wearing a nice pair of dress shoes with your casual attire is not easy and many times people can take it too far and look like they are trying too hard or just wear a pair of pants and dress shoes that would not go well together to save their life. So what's nice about the brown full-brogue is how much more easier it is create that transition from dress to casual.




















I have posted some pictures for you so that you can see what you can pair brown full brogues with and how simple it is. My shoes are by Paul Smith and the model is called 'Starr.' While mine are a style with a slightly thinner sole, I definitely prefer something a little bit thicker, like the two above by Edward Green. A thicker sole still allows you to dress it up but just makes it even easier to dress it down. From the pictures you can see that it is very easy to wear brown shoes, let alone brogues. They compliment most colors as well as offer great contrast when you play with various shades of brown. A good example of that would be the lighter colored Edward Green shoe, above, paired with a navy suit. The contrast between those two colors will definitely spice up your outfit and have you stand out from the crowd.




















I know I always say that if you don't own such and such then you should definitely get it but if you really don't own a brown brogue, preferably full-brogue, then your wardrobe is seriously lacking on a practical scale. It's like dress clothes purchasing 101: 1. Brown brogues; 2. Black shoes; 3. Navy suit; 4. Gray suit and 5. Black suit. Those alone create an infinite amount of outfits and looks!!!