What I Am Wearing

Before coming to England, I can wholeheartedly admit that I did not have a clue about suits and good tailoring. I used to even work in a place that sold (what I believed to be) nice suits but after seeing the quality of the cuts and tailors here on the Row (as we snobs like to call it), I now realize that what I used to see in the States was like a top sirloin from the grocery store and now I am dabbling in the Kobe beef from a 5-star restaurant. It's absolutely amazing what a good tailor can not only do for your figure, but for your whole image, and here at Gieves, we have someone who is rumored to be among the best and considering some of the things that I have seen him do, I don't doubt it! And in this new found passion of mine (whereby I am selling my personal shoes to buy more suits), I have come to love a nice double-breasted suit. Something about it just really appeals to me even though I am quite sure that I may not have the stature for them, as I am not the tallest of guys. Nevertheless, I don't care and will continue to pick up more and more of them, in every color I can! I must admit though, that my next order of suiting, is unfortunately not a DB, but rather a lovely navy flannel, peak lapel, single button suit and I can't wait to get it!!

Shoes: J.FitzPatrick design, Gaziano & Girling produced
Suit: Gieves (older label)
Shirt: TK Maxx
Tie: Robert Talbott, Best Of Class

What I Am Wearing

For the life of me, I still cannot understand why I don't see more gentlemen wearing burgundy shoes. Come to think of it, I can't seem to recall, ever since I have been in this country (England), having seen someone wearing burgundy shoes with a suit, and almost, burgundy shoes period. It's such a lovely color that compliments blue better than any other color (even brown), yet it would appear that not many other people share that same sentiment. It could also very well be that English shoemakers (from what I have seen) don't really offer that many shoes in the burgundy color. Sure they may have one or two out of their entire collection, but if you don't happen to like the model that the burgundy shoe comes in, you aren't going to buy it, are you? It's literally like people have just been conditioned to make black shoes and wear them, with everything they have. Of course you have the rebellious ones that wear brown, but rare are the men who put on a burgundy shoe. Well, for now I guess that I will stand alone, and hope that with the introduction of my shoe line, and my burgundy wholecut that will be offered, more people will see that it's a lovely color that compliments, beautifully, a navy suit!

Shoes: Bespoke, made by me
Suit: Gieves & Hawkes, Made To Measure
Shirt: Don't remember, from TK Maxx
Tie: Tino Cosma

What I Am Wearing

For those that have been big time followers of my blog, you will know that I used to do a post called, "My Shoes," of which I wanted to give you all a chance to see the shoes that I, the self-proclaimed 'Shoe Snob', own and allow you all to critique me. But no one did so and I could not be bothered to constantly have to pick a different shoe to wear just to take a picture of. Plus, maybe you all don't care about my 100+ shoes. Therefore, I have decided to change it up a bit. I figured that since I put of loads of colorful and quirky shoes up on my blog, and it may not be the easiest thing to justify not only owning but buying these types of shoes, that I would show all of you my outfits 2-3 times a week so see how I do it. Therefore, for those of you who wish to branch out of the realm of wearing just black shoes, I can hopefully provide you with a visual stepping-stone to do so. I hope that you all enjoy my outfits. Please feel free to comment, even if negative.

Shoes: Gieves & Hawkes loafers by Edward Green with patina done by Paulus Bolten
DB Jacket: Vintage
Pants: H&M
Shirt: Primark
Bow-tie: Gieves & Hawkes

Today's Favorites - Carreducker

I just realized that a plain toed shoe, whether it be a wholecut, a saddle shoe, or a model like this with just a facing, is by far my favorite type of shoe, so long that it has a nice shape. Something about the plain canvas of the vamp and toe area, just draws me in and screams elegance. So when I first saw this new bespoke model, a collaboration between Gieves & Hawkes and Carreducker, I was absolutely stunned! Being made of my favorite color, blue, and having the lizard skin facing (a skin that I am normally not fond of), it was pairing that went well together and gave me a new appreciation of the mixture of blue and black. Normally I stay away from pairing these two colors too much, as I believe that a dark blue can be too close to black and therefore offers no contrast, but the blue in this shoe was just light enough, to allow that facing to truly stand out. And because of that, I am in absolute envy of these shoes, and am trying to figure out how I am going to get a pair without having to spend thousands of pounds.....what a dilemma! 

Carreducker Interview

As many of you may already know, I am located at Gieves & Hawkes, just a spitting distance away from the new home of bespoke shoemakers James Ducker and Deborah Carre, whom make up the duo known as Carreducker. Them being such an easy target and good friends of mine, I figured that with the launch of the new store layout (which includes the Carreducker's, myself and many other interesting things) at Gieves and Hawkes on Savile Row, it would be a good time to give them the interview spotlight in order to tell us how their transition has been going!

As they have been readers of my blog, for quite some time now, it was an honor to have finally met them (when I came to England) and to have found out that I would be working so close to them. As an aspiring shoemaker myself, you can imagine how opportunistic it is for me to be near them. All of the answers to my questions are just 20 feet away (6 meters). That being, here is their interview, which I had presented to them to be answered individually. Enjoy!

1. How long have you been involved in shoemaking/shoe design?

Deborah Carre: I've always had a passion for design and studied design at university - I have a BA Hons in fashion design and marketing and worked with RE Trickers to produce my final collection; whilst working I did part-time pattern cutting, fashion illustration and handsewn shoemaking courses; before then taking up a four year apprenticeship in handsewn shoemaking.

James Ducker:  I STARTED IN 1992 IN BARCELONA DOING EVENING CLASSES AND CONTINUED MAKING IN MY SPARE TIME. I RETURNED TO LONDON IN 1998 TO START AN APPRENTICESHIP WITH JOHN LOBB LTD.


2. What was it that made you decide that you wanted to get into shoemaking/shoe design?

DC: Accessories interest me because of the constraints of scale and proportion...plus I have always loved men's shoes.  When I was deciding what to do for my final collection at college I identified a gap in the market for a combination of craft and design. I approached RE Trickers to sponsor my collection of unisex box calf, handsewn boots. I was fortunate enough to work closely with their head of production and bespoke maker. I was attracted to the combination of working with my head and hands - problem solving - and enjoyed the experience so much that when I left college, I continued to study part time and then won a QEST scholarship to do an apprenticeship.

JD: SERENDIPITY REALLY. I HAPPENED UPON THE CLASSES AND FELL IN LOVE WITH IT

3. Most English shoemakers are very conservative in their look (shoe design) yet you tend to be a bit more creative and unique in your styling. Why break the traditional English mold?

DC: I can't help it - I have Sark and American blood in me!  No seriously that is why James and I are such a good design team, he tempers my extravagances and I push him outside his comfort zone. English people are renown for their eccentricity - and James and I don't go crazy, we just like good style and design.

JD: A NUMBER OF REASONS REALLY. IT IS OUR NATURAL AESTHETIC TO DESIGN THE WAY WE DO. YOU HAVE TO BE TRUE TO YOUR SELF AS A DESIGNER AND THEN HOPE THAT CUSTOMERS LIKE YOUR STYLE AND BUY INTO IT. IT SETS US APART FROM OUR COMPETITORS. BEING JUST LIKE THEM WOULD NOT HELP US. IT BRINGS THE CRAFT INTO THE 21ST CENTURY BY MARRYING ANCIENT CRAFT SKILLS WITH A MODERN DESIGN ETHOS
 
4. What is your favorite color? Favorite color on a shoe?

DC: My favourite colour is french navy...and my favourite colour in a shoe...well I am going through a blue phase at the moment so it would have to be pale blue nubuck for a summer derby.

JD:  I LOVE COLOUR IN GENERAL, BUT I LIKE IT USED SPARINGLY IN ALONGSIDE MORE NEUTRAL TONES. IT'S COMBINATIONS OF COLOURS THAT I REALLY LIKE. THIS IS TRUE FOR SHOES AS WELL. NAVY BLUE IS MY CURRENT FAVOURITE BUT THAT COULD CHANGE!

5. What is your favorite model out of Carreducker's collection?

DC: I love the boots we did for Guy Hills in his own The Dashing Dashing Tweeds and claret lizard skin. It was one of the first fabric/leather combinations we did. I LOVE boots and the mix of fabric and leather is playful but stylish.

JD: MEN'S SHOE IS PROBABLY THE SADDLE BOOT AND LADIES IS THE DIETRICH

 6. You recently moved into Gieves & Hawkes, how has the transition help/affected Carreducker's business?

DC: On a positive note we are very privileged to be one of Gieves & Hawkes partners and turning the corner at 1 Savile Row never fails to put a smile on my face. And it all came about through a sequence of serendipitous meetings...one of those moments of everything coming together in a positive way.  It has offered us unprecedented access to bespoke enthusiasts; an unbeatable address; and exposure to customers who would not know of us otherwise. The only negative is that we are incredibly distracted and the speed of our making at Gieves suffers; and we have to be much better organised about our workload/tools etc. (which is actually a very good thing)

JD: ITS BEEN FANTASTIC. ORDERS HAVE INCREASED AND WE ARE SEEING THE RIGHT CLIENTS AND THEY ARE SEEING OUR SHOES. ITS THE PERFECT MARRIAGE REALLY, BESPOKE SUITS AND SHOES UNDER ONE ROOF!

7. What is the hardest thing about being a bespoke shoemaker? Subsequently, what is the most rewarding?


DC: You have to be fit and to stay physically fit - I hurt both elbows pulling a student's lasts in January and still have very painful tendinitis; when it goes wrong  there is no make do and mend. If the seam rips when you are taking the lasts out of a pair of customer shoes you have to start all over again - so we never tell a customer their shoes are ready until we have pulled the lasts. The rewards are simple - the satisfaction of finishing a pair of shoes well and seeing a customer (particularly one with discomfort) walk away happy in a pair of shoes we have made.

JD: THE HARDEST THING IS MAKING NO MONEY FOR YEARS AND YEARS. MY ADVICE TO THOSE WHO ASK IS DO IT FOR THE PASSION OF SHOEMAKING, BECAUSE YOU LOVE IT. THE MOST REWARDING THING IS THE CRAFT ITSELF, MAKING SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL AND EMINENTLY PRACTICAL.

8.You offer a course where you teach people how to make a pair of shoes, how many people (that you know of) have gone on the continue the trade?

DC: At least nine students have continued making; one is doing an apprenticeship, two have set up their own workshops; five more are still making for friends and family; and one is making for a hobby.

JD: WE HAVE AT LEAST 5 WHO ARE MAKING A SERIOUS GO OF IT AND 1 OTHER WHO HAS SET UP A WORKSHOP FOR HIS OWN PLEASURE.

9. What do you hope to see unfold in the shoe industry within the next 10 years?

DC: A greater understanding of handsewn and the difference between handsewn and hand made; a greater appreciation for true craft; a move away from manufacturing in China and a return to English-made shoes.

JD: THE GROWTH OF BESPOKE SHOES, AS PEOPLE SEE THE BENEFIT OF MEETING THE PERSON WHO IS GOING TO MAKE THEIR SHOES; OF KNOWING THE PROVENANCE OF THE LEATHERS ETC; OF BEING INVOLVED IN THE DESIGN; AND OF WEARING WONDERFUL SHOES THAT FIT THEM PROPERLY. IN GENERAL A MOVE TO QUALITY OVER QUANTITY IN MANUFACTURED SHOES. 1 DECENT PAIR INSTEAD OF 3 RUBBISH ONES.  

10. And advice for aspiring shoemakers/shoe designers?

  
DC: Only do it if you love it 

JD: BE PASSIONATE AND TENACIOUS. IT CAN BE DONE - JUST LOOK AT DEBORAH AND I 

Well, thank you to the two of you, it's a pleasure as always. I hope that all of you enjoyed the interview. Posted below are a few pics of some of their new styles that they have done in collaboration with Gieves & Hawkes. 

Until next time,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

 

 

Gieves & Hawkes New Shoe Collection

 

Every few years it seems that Gieves & Hawkes switches the manufacturer who makes their private label shoes. As there is newly appointed upper management and a new re-vamp of the Gieves & Hawkes Flagship store and company image, the old shoes had had their time and the new line is finally here. What's great about this new line of dress shoes, is that it is under the name of a very old bespoke shoemaking firm that dates back to the early 1900's, here in London. And that name is Pouslen & Skone. If you try and search them in Google, what it will bring you, is to the website of New & Lingwood. This is due to the fact that some time in the early 70's, Poulsen & Skone's business was tanking and New & Lingwood saw an opportunity and therefore purchased the rights to the name. Around this same time, New & Lingwood was also employing George Cleverley on a consultancy basis, as is hinted by the famous 'Butterfly' loafer in this collection and stated to be designed by Cleverley himself. But from then until now, the Poulsen & Skone name has been casually floating in the wind, popping up here and there but is now here to stay, under the Gieves & Hawkes shoe collection.

For a little bit of background knowledge, the Poulsen & Skone shoes, that we carry, are made by Crockett & Jones (the loafers) and Grenson (all of the rest of the models). The prices range from 350 GBP to 425 GBP. The shoes made by Grenson, must be similar in quality to their highest grade line, because their feel reminds me of the handgrade line by C&J or of regular Edward Greens. Needless to say, I was quite shocked when I tried them on and felt how well made that they were, the brogues in particular. I was unaware that Grenson produced to that level of quality. They hugged my foot quite well, as they tend to run a tad bit on the narrow side, and felt as though I could tread around the concrete jungle of London all day long and would still be comfortable. As I have been longing for a burgundy loafer for a long time, I patiently awaiting for the butterfly loafer to arrive in burgundy so that I can add a Poulsen & Skone shoe to my collection!!

Another addition to the new Gieves & Hawkes shoe collection are the more casual shoes, provided by Harry's of London and a boot by Lodger. Gieves & Hawkes' new idea apparently wants to provide every kind of shoe, to go with all of the attire that they sell, in which apart of that is causal wear.Therefore, they teamed up with Harry's to create a comfort shoe selection, ranging from Tod's style loafers to sporty chukka boots, with contoured rubber soles. Another collaboration was with Lodger, to provide a more rugged jean type of boot which certainly appeals to the rainy London city-life. The new collection is also providing what any gentleman's dress line should, and that is a monogrammed Prince Albert loafer, for the distinguished gentleman. (Sorry, I had to try and crack a joke to this relatively dry yet informative post) But in all seriousness, I am quite fond of the new line, it certainly beats the old collection and I am excited to get my first pair in the not so distant future.

My New Service at Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row

 

The Shoe Snob is now reachable and is offering a new service at Gieves & Hawkes at No.1 Savile Row in London, England. To continue on my journey within the shoe industry, I have found myself offering artisan shines for those who wish to set their shoes apart from the rest.

Taken from my background in shoemaking, I have added to London, with the help of Gieves & Hawkes, what we believe to be fairly uncommon: the opportunity to get a shoe-shine in the artisan/military type of way. When I first learned how to make shoes, my first 2 weeks were literally just polishing finished shoes by hand. Not only did this teach me the art of patience and discipline, but it helped me realize that the polishing of the shoe, is one of the most important parts of the shoemaking process, yet is also a part that may go frequently overlooked and unappreciated. However, few people seem to realize that leather is not naturally shiny, nor beautiful and it takes a good 1-3 hours (depending on leather and state of shoe) of hand-polishing to give it that $3000 mirror-looking quality.

So for those of you who truly care about your shoe's lifespan and looks, I thought that I would inform you that as well as offering my services to you as a writer on my blog I am also now offering them as an artisan shiner for your shoes. So if you ever happen to be on Savile Row in London, come pop in to say hello and possibly leave your shoes for a great mirror-like shine!

On some of the pictures, you will notice before (out of the box) and after's (when I am done shining them), like the black cap-toe and cognac colored derby's.