Today's Favorites - Septieme Largeur

I figured that while I have been pitching wholecuts quite tough for the last few weeks or so, I might as well keep on! I mean, how could I not after seeing these bad boys by Septieme Largeur? It just makes sense, doesn't it? I think so.....Nevertheless, the beauty about having a custom patina done on your shoes is the fact that you can have any shade of color that you would like, and even multiple shades of many colors if you fancy that. You see, for me, this blue is perfect. It's not too light, but it's not too dark either. It's just right and shows you that it is a blue. There would be not question about it, like navy can sometimes come across as black. This is blue, period. But you would have a hard time finding this exact color at a leather tannery or supplier. There might be something close, but not exact, and more likely than not, once lasted it would not look the same. It's amazing how far along shoes have come since their conception. I remember once going to some museum and seeing replicas of some of the first shoes made, and to think that since then we can now do what we do, having customized fit, color, shape, detail etc....it's quite amazing.....yet I feel that we are at the peak in terms of customization (not craftsmanship), because what more could we truly do to make a shoe unique? Add hovering capabilities? :-)

Some More J. FitzPatrick Prototypes....!

Dear Readers,

I have finally received the rest of my prototypes, adjusted up to this point, and am feeling a whole lot better about the way that my line is taking shape. At this moment, the shoes are finally done with all of the pattern adjustments, which takes up the majority of the prototype work. Now, I just have to finalize the minute details like lining & sole colors, perfecting the medallion (placing on shoe and style), making sure that the shoes (patterns) are consistent with one another (when using the same pattern on two different lasts) and have them wear tested by a trusted expert who can give me constructive feedback on fit and comfort. I assume that I will need to take one more trip to my factory, sort out the rest of the work and have them re-made one more time for the final prototypes to become complete. I am thinking (best case scenario) that this will be sometime in May/June that I will receive them back. At that point, I can't say whether or not my shoes will be ready for A/W 2012 release. I guess that it will depend on who takes them and how fast we can sort the business stuff out. Nevertheless, please know that I am doing everything that I can to make sure that the shoes come out quickly, but that the shoes are also going to look good and hold the integrity of the price that they will be selling at.

(Toe shape more accurate looking to picture on right)

When looking at the pictures, try to bear in mind that I took these very fast (just to show all of you) and right after they came out of the shipping box. So, if they look a little rough around the edges, that's because they are, as I did not do anything to enhance their look, especially as they are all just prototypes that will not be apart of my true finalized samples. At this point, I have shown you just a little over half of the collection, and mostly all of the straight forward stuff. There are still about 6 styles that I am going to leave until the prototypes are completely finalized. I do this first and foremost, because I would like to leave a bit of excitement and anticipation in the air and partly because I do not wish to release all of my ideas to some of the people that read this blog (i.e. other shoe brands, designers etc.) before they are ready to be released to the world. Just so that you know, allow me to go over what I have showed you and what will be left for later.

What I have shown you: Cap toe oxford, saddle oxford brogue, penny loafer, chukka boot (in pointy last), plain toe quarter brogue with medallion (in black leather on pointy last and suede version on round last), Prince Albert wholecut loafer and derby with piping.

What I haven't shown you: Balmoral boot, double monk strap, chukka boot (in round last with heavy sole), derby without piping, oxford saddle shoe, oxford wholecut with brogueing, and jodhpur boot.

What I am hoping from all of you, as I want to involve you in this whole process, is to start thinking about the models that I have showed you and to give me your thoughts on what colors you would love to see them in. When the prototypes are all finalized, I will put them up for a week or so, in order to let all of you give your top picks for color options. But, as a way to get that process going now, in order to speed things up, I would be more than happy to have you list them in the comments section below. Bare in mind that I will have to look at all of the comments and make a decision based on what is most feasible, sellable and popular.

For the derby shoe below, I am still very unsure about the piping that I originally thought would look good. I know that it is not for the common individual, but thought that it would pose as something fun for the shoe lover that wants something a bit different. Obviously, this derby will also come without the piping, but when making prototypes, I believe that you should make the craziest things first to know what they look like. It's easy to imagine it without the piping but would be difficult to understand how it looks with it, without having seen it. So please, tell me what you all think. If I keep it in the collection, it will most likely be a one-off anyway.

I hope that all of you are enjoying watching the progress of my shoe line, as it unfolds and are also enjoying the product that I have created thus far. Do know that there is still more to come, some fun stuff too, the stuff that you would expect to see from me, after all this time of talking about colors, details etc... But I want to save it until later so you will just have to trust that it is there...

Thanks to everyone who has supported me and who eagerly awaits the release of my shoe line...

Best,

Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Today's Favorites - Carreducker

I just realized that a plain toed shoe, whether it be a wholecut, a saddle shoe, or a model like this with just a facing, is by far my favorite type of shoe, so long that it has a nice shape. Something about the plain canvas of the vamp and toe area, just draws me in and screams elegance. So when I first saw this new bespoke model, a collaboration between Gieves & Hawkes and Carreducker, I was absolutely stunned! Being made of my favorite color, blue, and having the lizard skin facing (a skin that I am normally not fond of), it was pairing that went well together and gave me a new appreciation of the mixture of blue and black. Normally I stay away from pairing these two colors too much, as I believe that a dark blue can be too close to black and therefore offers no contrast, but the blue in this shoe was just light enough, to allow that facing to truly stand out. And because of that, I am in absolute envy of these shoes, and am trying to figure out how I am going to get a pair without having to spend thousands of pounds.....what a dilemma! 

Shoes -- Part 2: Style Names & Terminology -- Oxfords

To get back to a little bit of education, I have decided to write my 'Monday long posts', on everything and anything referring to shoes, that being, the 'technical stuff' and giving a break to the aesthetic fluff that I usually put up. I first started with the different shoe constructions and am now moving on to the different style names and terminologies. As there is much to write, I will start with oxfords and proceed next week onto the following style: derby's (AKA bluchers). Enjoy!

Oxfords:

-- Wholecuts --

My favorite style of shoe is, hands down, the oxford. For me, it is the most elegant style out of everything a shoe/boot can become. This is because it allows, with it's closed lacing, the shoe to be very clean looking i.e. stitch free. The more stitch-free the shoe can become, the more elegant it gets, at least in my opinion. Oxfords can also be referred to as 'balmorals,' and this is due to the fact that oxfords were first seen in Ireland and Scotland, and thus takes after the name of the Queen of England's castle, which is also called Balmoral. But what you will always be able to use, in order to denote an oxford, is the fact that the tongue will always be stitched under the vamp.

As I was stating before, the most elegant (dressy) of all of the oxfords, is the wholecut (as shown above), due to the fact that it has no stitching across the main sections of the shoe (only the back seam). The beautiful version above is by French brand, Septieme Largeur.

Refer to these images above, for the names of the different pieces from the shoe's upper. Click on image to enlarge.

-- Plain Toe's --

While these shoe styles above are not technically called this, it is a good way to know what's on the next level of the hierarchy of dressiness. I have always felt that the less fluff that you see around the toe area, the dressier the shoe. This is partly because when wearing dress trousers, you tend to see mostly the toe area, and not the rest of the shoe. Therefore, the less stitching, the more elegant the model. As you will notice, however, on the top shoe, there is what is called a medallion, on the toe box. A medallion is brogueing (hole punching) in the shape of some symmetrical (unless bespoke) decoration that is positioned on the front of the toe box. This will be a matter of opinion, when deciding whether or not a medallion makes the shoe less dressy. I think that it does. That's not to say that it is not nice, but when considering what to wear to a formal event, less is always more. (The two beautiful models above by Anthony Delos)

 -- Cap Toe's --

A cap toe, or a straight cap, is denoted by the stitching that crosses over the toe box area. A cap toe is a very general term, much like wingtip, and can refer to any shoe that has a straight cap, such as this. And while this shoe shows all of the pieces of the upper, in a simple manner, I shall explain those as well, just in case the sketched pictures provided above, were a little confusing. The piece in between the cap and the laces, where your foot flexes, is called the 'vamp.' The little piece where the laces are, is called the 'facing.' The part where the heel is, is called the 'heel counter.' And last but not least, the leftover bit is called the 'quarter.'

You will find that the cap toe is probably the most popular model in dress shoe history. Since there have been suits, there have been cap toes, and it seems that they tend to go hand-in-hand, as most business professionals wear them. For many industries, this has become the staple model of dress shoe, which to me is unfortunate, as there are so many better models.

Model Above By: Anthony Delos

 

 -- Wingtips --

Wingtips, or wing caps, are just like cap toes, only they have this W shaped cap, as opposed to a straight line. Because of that shape, they are generally seen as less dressy, as this shape is "more daring," and less business-like. This is by no means my opinion, but rather what seams to be the elementary school of thought considered by many white collar industries, and their superiors. I can understand that it might be less formal, but in no way, does that make me feel that it is any less appropriate for business attire. But then again, things are changing and you will find that more people (thankfully) are wearing this style to work, with their business suits!

Shoes Above By: Gaziano & Girling

-- U-Caps --

Far less common, are the U-caps. This style, I believe, used to be used a lot more many years ago, by the likes of Edward Green and older shoe firms but has since been popular until recently. While it is still uncommon to see them, I feel that they will be making a come back in the near future. What's nice about them is that they add a breath of fresh air, to your closet, as they will stand out from all of the other common styles, that everyone owns. While I still do not have a pair, I am definitely going to be adding that to my 'must-have' list, and would not mind if they came from Laszlo Vass, as I love the one's that he did, pictured above.

-- Saddle Shoes --

If you have read my blog before, than you know a thing or two about saddle shoes, and how they are my absolute favorite style ever!! And as I have written a ton of info about them before, including here, I won't bore you with more mumbo jumbo. I will just say, that they never disappoint, and it is good to see them back on the books for many companies upcoming seasons.

Shoes Above By: Septieme Largeur

-- Galosh Shoe --

While this could be up for debate, I have heard this model called 'galosh style' before, as it looks as if there is a galosh covering the toe to heel area, leaving the facing and top of the quarter exposed. Yet, some people also refer to it simply as a balmoral. Whatever the case, it is proper style, one that I find quite appealing and elegant. I only wish that you would see it more, not only in stores, but also on people's feet!

Top Shoes: Craig Corvin
Bottom Left: Laszlo Vass; Bottom Right: Gaziano & Girling

Well, as it is late and I am super tired and therefore I am going to leave it at that for today. While there are so many more to go and you might have thought that I left some out, be patient and you will more than likely see them on another post, when I get to brogues, spectators, derby's, boots etc.

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Shoes Of The Week - Edward Green Brummell

As a lover of brogues, I must say that to this day I have not seen one that I like more than the Brummell, by Edward Green. Named after the well known dandy of the early 20th Century, Beau Brummell, this model of shoe, has taken the idea of the full brogue, but has altered it ever so subtly to create something that is not only unique, but in my opinion a lot more elegant, as it captures the curves of the last shape ever so much better. Late last year, Edward Green re-released this model as a mark of their 120th anniversary, only supplying the world with a selected amount. It makes me sad that this is not a model that you can just buy at any time, as for me, I would prefer it all day, everyday over the traditional full brogue. But I guess such is life and in fact makes this model that much more special...

While I am not sure about this, I am hoping that they will still make MTO requests for this shoe, because this will be the model that I will want to buy, when I am able to afford a pair. As I stated in my post, 3 Piece Suits & Edward Green's, there are two things that I have been yearning for since I began to appreciate style, and as I am waiting for my MTM 3 piece suit to arrive, the only thing that is left, is a pair of Edward Green Brummell's!

Corthay 'Wilfred'

From self-taught shoe design to dabbling in pattern making, I have truly learned to love and appreciate the details and complexities of a shoe's style/pattern/design and how the most minute of details, can truly make one shoe stand out from another. Probably the shoe/style that I appreciate the most, out of every shoe that I have ever seen, is the Wilfred by Corthay. You may look at it and think that it's not that special and that many shoes have been designed just like it, but that is precisely what you should think, 'shoes that are kind of like it' but not exactly like it. The galosh look (having a separate piece leather starting at the facing and extending to the heel) is something that has been done by virtually every bespoke shoemaker, and has trickled down into their RTW line, to become a popular style that you see worn by many, think the Kent by G&G. But never before had someone altered the line, that goes from the bottom of the laces to the heel, to give it this detailed look of the outline of a bouncing ball, until Corthay.

As you can see by all of the pictures, a style, so simple in it's concept -- a two piece -- can literally create an unthinkable amount of pairings simply by altering the leather color and the material used, let alone all of the small things like lace & stitch coloring, as well as burnishing. What is impressive, is the fact that Pierre Corthay has actually created more color options in one style, than I have ever seen before in a dress shoe. The 'Wilfred' is like the Sperry A/O of dress shoes, done season after season, in an array of new color and material arrangements. And why not? When you have created such a signature shoe with a timeless style, such as this, it only makes sense to release it year after year, to give your dedicated shoe fans, not only a new aesthetic look but also a familiar feel. That's smart too, because many men don't like to shy away from familiarity, especially when they are handing over a $1000 per pair. They want to know that the shoe, in a break in or two, is going to fit like a glove, and not give some other model a chance at hurting their feet. But that is just some men.....

While I could probably write a 10-page essay on the Wilfred and it's greatness, which is impressive considering that I could never write longer than a page, in high school, without going mind blank, I will keep it short to not bore you. Probably the simplest yet most intriguing part of the Wilfred, is actually the stitching, that almost every oxford in the world has, which follows the line of the lacing, on the facing. You can see it best on the picture directly above. In most shoes, you will find that this will be slightly sloped, kind of giving some detail to the shoe, but never have I seen it with the effect of coming to a bottom point and then creating another semi-circle, kind of like a really curvy 'M.' But not only is it stitched quite uniquely, it also continues to follow the top stitch line, going all the way back to the heel. This again, is something that I have never seen, maybe because I was simply not paying attention, or maybe because Corthay, a true artist, understands that the minor details are what create masterpieces and was the first to do this..... But like with all masterpieces, they come at a cost, a very high one...

On another note, but also involving Corthay, is an event that he is hosting from July 10th, for 4 days, that some of you might be interested in.

"Imagined by the prestigious shoemaker Pierre Corthay to honour the “Compagnons du Devoir” and their unique skills, the Excellence Run aims at discovering the heritage of exceptional craftsmanship and at promoting the Masters of their art." -- Parisian Gentleman

To read the full article GO HERE

Pictures from many sources but mainly Leffot and L'Atelier Du Chausseur

All the best,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"