Shoes -- Part 2: Style Names & Terminology -- Brogues

The term, brogue, is a word that can describe many many styles of shoe within the shoe realm. It is because of this that it is commonly misused and due to this misconception, I wanted to dedicate an entire post on brogues and what they really are. First off, let me start by saying that a brogue can be used to describe any shoe that has perforations in it (little holes). Because it ranges in such depth, you might find that the term can sometimes be confusing and attributed incorrectly. Therefore, let us begin the brogue education. The word brogue was first heard and used by the Scottish and the Irish in the late 16th century. But it was not until later that it became something that was used to describe shoes. As you may think of it now, a brogue in it's original use, also had holes in it, but they were actually functional, being that they used to drain the water that would get in a person's shoes, from walking across a wet terrain. Up until the early 1900's they were still considered a very casual shoe. It was not until later that they became what they are today: a super-hip dress shoe!

Full Brogues:

Full brogues, as shown above and directly below, are categorized by several things. First and foremost, they must have a wing-cap toe. Without this, it is not a full brogue, it will be called something else, of which I will get to below. The second thing is that you will find that full brogues will have each of the 5 pieces to the upper: cap, vamp, facing, quarter and counter (in case this is your first time reading, I described all of these here). It will always be the shoe with the most amount of perforations. Now, there are several shoes that may look like a full-brogue but will not be, because they won't have these 5 pieces, such as the Brummell shoe by Edward Green. While I find this shoe much more appealing than a full-brogue, it sadly is not considered one, as it does not consist of all of the necessary components to make it so. Full brogues, however, are in my opinion the most well rounded shoes in dress shoe history, as they can look good with everything, from suits to jeans. This is obviously subjective, but can easily be proven by putting together the proper outfits. Now this can be up for debate, but I was always under the impression that a full brogue needed to be an oxford and not a derby, which would therefore categorize the picture below the 2 directly under this writing to be a semi brogue. However, this I am not 100% sure about.

Semi Brogues (AKA Half Brogues):

Semi brogues are the full brogues cousin. They can look exactly like a full brogue except that they will have a cap toe (as opposed to a wing cap) and also have a medallion (decorative perforations) on the toe. This is a very common shoe in the business industry as a cap toe generally denotes a business setting. Obviously though, you won't find too many spectators, such as the one above, in the corporate environment. On that note, you will notice that a spectator, which is a style of shoe, can also fall under the brogue category as well as something else, like just calling it a cap-toe or a wingtip. All of these style names, as you can see, can sometimes be interrelated.

Quarter Brogues:

As you can somewhat see, the lesser down we go, the less perforations you will find in the shoe, and the more dressier the shoe will be. Quarter brogues seem to be far less common, at least from what I notice, especially in comparison to the full-brogue, which are among the most common of shoe styles. Quarter brogues are certainly not among the most stylish, when it comes to design, and maybe therefore this is the reason why I don't notice them as much. They dwell in appreciation of being simplistic and are therefore used as a conservative shoe for conservative occasions, such as working in the financial district. You will find that the majority of quarter brogues are going to have a cap toe. It will be uncommon for you to find a wing tip quarter brogue, as most designers seemed to be inclined to add all of the other pieces to the vamp when designing a wing cap shoe. But this is just my theory, let me grab my pen and paper and see how it actually looks! You will also notice that it must have not have a medallion on the toe, or else it becomes a semi brogue.

Longwing Brogue:

Ahh, the longwing brogue. This is the shoe most loved by Americans and American shoe companies. I was actually going to try and fill this entire post up with Edward Green's but just realized that of course, they don't a make a longwing brogue, at least not that I have ever seen. That being, I must give it up to the longwing master, Alden, as pictured below. The longwing derives it's name from the fact that the wing cap, instead of ending at the joints of the foot, extend all the way back to the heel, creating a long-wing-cap AKA longwing. You really don't see this shoe made too much outside of American shoe companies, with the exception of maybe trickers. I don't know why really? Maybe because they are generally made in a bulky fashion, but I must say that they can look good with a nice pair of jeans.

Top Two Pictures (directly above): Alden, Bottom Picture: Tricker's

All Other Pictures: Edward Green

Some Pictures Provided By: Leffot & Leather Soul

While there are many other shoes that have perforations on them, such as a monk brogue, it is pretty easy to understand what they might be labeled, or in actuality the fact that they might simply just fall under the casual title of 'brogue,' and truly not have a proper style name. Well, it's been a long one and I need to go and enjoy what's left of the sun, so until next time, enjoy the post!

Sincerely,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Shoes -- Part 2: Style Names & Terminology -- Oxfords

To get back to a little bit of education, I have decided to write my 'Monday long posts', on everything and anything referring to shoes, that being, the 'technical stuff' and giving a break to the aesthetic fluff that I usually put up. I first started with the different shoe constructions and am now moving on to the different style names and terminologies. As there is much to write, I will start with oxfords and proceed next week onto the following style: derby's (AKA bluchers). Enjoy!

Oxfords:

-- Wholecuts --

My favorite style of shoe is, hands down, the oxford. For me, it is the most elegant style out of everything a shoe/boot can become. This is because it allows, with it's closed lacing, the shoe to be very clean looking i.e. stitch free. The more stitch-free the shoe can become, the more elegant it gets, at least in my opinion. Oxfords can also be referred to as 'balmorals,' and this is due to the fact that oxfords were first seen in Ireland and Scotland, and thus takes after the name of the Queen of England's castle, which is also called Balmoral. But what you will always be able to use, in order to denote an oxford, is the fact that the tongue will always be stitched under the vamp.

As I was stating before, the most elegant (dressy) of all of the oxfords, is the wholecut (as shown above), due to the fact that it has no stitching across the main sections of the shoe (only the back seam). The beautiful version above is by French brand, Septieme Largeur.

Refer to these images above, for the names of the different pieces from the shoe's upper. Click on image to enlarge.

-- Plain Toe's --

While these shoe styles above are not technically called this, it is a good way to know what's on the next level of the hierarchy of dressiness. I have always felt that the less fluff that you see around the toe area, the dressier the shoe. This is partly because when wearing dress trousers, you tend to see mostly the toe area, and not the rest of the shoe. Therefore, the less stitching, the more elegant the model. As you will notice, however, on the top shoe, there is what is called a medallion, on the toe box. A medallion is brogueing (hole punching) in the shape of some symmetrical (unless bespoke) decoration that is positioned on the front of the toe box. This will be a matter of opinion, when deciding whether or not a medallion makes the shoe less dressy. I think that it does. That's not to say that it is not nice, but when considering what to wear to a formal event, less is always more. (The two beautiful models above by Anthony Delos)

 -- Cap Toe's --

A cap toe, or a straight cap, is denoted by the stitching that crosses over the toe box area. A cap toe is a very general term, much like wingtip, and can refer to any shoe that has a straight cap, such as this. And while this shoe shows all of the pieces of the upper, in a simple manner, I shall explain those as well, just in case the sketched pictures provided above, were a little confusing. The piece in between the cap and the laces, where your foot flexes, is called the 'vamp.' The little piece where the laces are, is called the 'facing.' The part where the heel is, is called the 'heel counter.' And last but not least, the leftover bit is called the 'quarter.'

You will find that the cap toe is probably the most popular model in dress shoe history. Since there have been suits, there have been cap toes, and it seems that they tend to go hand-in-hand, as most business professionals wear them. For many industries, this has become the staple model of dress shoe, which to me is unfortunate, as there are so many better models.

Model Above By: Anthony Delos

 

 -- Wingtips --

Wingtips, or wing caps, are just like cap toes, only they have this W shaped cap, as opposed to a straight line. Because of that shape, they are generally seen as less dressy, as this shape is "more daring," and less business-like. This is by no means my opinion, but rather what seams to be the elementary school of thought considered by many white collar industries, and their superiors. I can understand that it might be less formal, but in no way, does that make me feel that it is any less appropriate for business attire. But then again, things are changing and you will find that more people (thankfully) are wearing this style to work, with their business suits!

Shoes Above By: Gaziano & Girling

-- U-Caps --

Far less common, are the U-caps. This style, I believe, used to be used a lot more many years ago, by the likes of Edward Green and older shoe firms but has since been popular until recently. While it is still uncommon to see them, I feel that they will be making a come back in the near future. What's nice about them is that they add a breath of fresh air, to your closet, as they will stand out from all of the other common styles, that everyone owns. While I still do not have a pair, I am definitely going to be adding that to my 'must-have' list, and would not mind if they came from Laszlo Vass, as I love the one's that he did, pictured above.

-- Saddle Shoes --

If you have read my blog before, than you know a thing or two about saddle shoes, and how they are my absolute favorite style ever!! And as I have written a ton of info about them before, including here, I won't bore you with more mumbo jumbo. I will just say, that they never disappoint, and it is good to see them back on the books for many companies upcoming seasons.

Shoes Above By: Septieme Largeur

-- Galosh Shoe --

While this could be up for debate, I have heard this model called 'galosh style' before, as it looks as if there is a galosh covering the toe to heel area, leaving the facing and top of the quarter exposed. Yet, some people also refer to it simply as a balmoral. Whatever the case, it is proper style, one that I find quite appealing and elegant. I only wish that you would see it more, not only in stores, but also on people's feet!

Top Shoes: Craig Corvin
Bottom Left: Laszlo Vass; Bottom Right: Gaziano & Girling

Well, as it is late and I am super tired and therefore I am going to leave it at that for today. While there are so many more to go and you might have thought that I left some out, be patient and you will more than likely see them on another post, when I get to brogues, spectators, derby's, boots etc.

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Customer Finds - Old Cleverley Bespoke

One of my colleagues recently brought me two pairs of shoes that his grandfather had passed down to him. Now when this happens, it may be a really old pair of Church's, Allen Edmonds or an older label like Poulsen & Skone or Nunn Bush, but these puppies just happen to be George Cleverley bespoke shoes, from the early 1960's, and while that may not seem that old, 50 years is still a good amount of time. I asked my friend to figure out how much they cost at the time and after a little bit of questioning to his grandfather, he told me that they cost 21 Guineas. That does not sound like a lot, but when you think about the time difference and the inflation rate, I will have you know that this amount is now equivalent to about 3000 GBP. It's always amazing to see how much the value of money has changed and how much more it will change, maybe one day being worth virtually nothing at the rate that it is going. Nevertheless, I found it to be quite interesting to see a shoe that was made when Mr. George Cleverley was actually around and overseeing production. And while the shoes were relatively similar to the standard we have today, there were some small details in the stitching of the upper that seemed to stand out, as a mark of the era.

Today's Favorites - Grenson Canvas Cap Toe's

I finally saw someone wearing cool and unique shoes, on Savile Row!!! I can't lie, actually this is the second time, but the first, I was heading to work, had my iPod in, and just couldn't be fussed to ask some random guy to take a picture of his shoes. But as this was a customer who came over to chat, I thought to myself, 'why not?' I was stumped, too, because I thought that I was all clever asking him if they were Lodger, as they have a SS11 style just like this, when in fact, they were made by Grenson (must be the higher-end line) as a special make up for this store in London, that I believe he said no longer exists. Anyway, the shoe was some sort of canvas, with a calfskin cap and laces to match and they were cool!! He even had a hat to match, which was even better and I applauded his bravery for wearing such shoes in a city like London, where you never know if it is going to just start raining at any second. Well, enjoy my first pics of an actual pair of customers shoes. I will try and do this more often, but usually being bombarded by black on people's feet, I just really don't see many people wearing worthy shoes.....

Shoes Of The Week - Laszlo Vass

I know that you hear this all of the time from me, but I have really been in the mood for a pair of double monks, as I do not have a pair. Those and some loafers!! This pair here by Laszlo Vass is simply stunning. The color is unique and delightful, the monk strap (the actual part) is just the right design, and the buckles are subtle and simple. What more could you ask for? Maybe a slimmer sole? Naw, that's the way Vass likes it and to be honest, that's what I like about them. I love how they will create this super sleek shoe, in terms of last shape, yet then add a pretty beefy sole, but not too big like some Norwegian construction, just big enough. It's a look that you don't see often but certainly draws attention to the eye, as it is like a paradox, in a sense. But because of that, when you see someone wearing a Vass shoe, you know immediately that it is one. That's clever branding for ya!!

If you happen to love this shoe like me and want to find it, it can be purchased at: Zimmerman & Kim

The owner, Reto, is a lovely fellow and speaks great English so just send him an email if you are interested!

Have a great weekend everyone!

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

Today's Favorites - Rider Boot Co.

I must say that these are absolutely stunning!! The fabric on these just might be one of the nicest one's that I have seen thus far, paired with a boot or shoe. I particularly like when a black leather shoe (or boot) is paired with a fabric that is a mixture between black and white, which in turn gives off a gray look, as is the case with this amazing herringbone tweed by Rider Boot Co.. For me, this is how a black shoe should be made, in order to take away from it's flatness and to give it more character. And to give away a little about my first design that I am working on and getting the pattern cut for, I will say that it is of this nature, that being, it will be a shoe composed of a flannel fabric and black leather. Having this boot in mind, I am quite pleased that I have been seeing more and more balmoral boots being made and put into production, although these are MTO, it's still nice to know that they are becoming more and more available. I must praise Ron Rider of Rider Boot Co. for the lovely designs and beautiful boots that I have seen of his inventory because there is nothing like a nice boot!

Pictures Courtesy Of: Leffot

Shoes Of The Week - Corthay

You can never go wrong with a simple and beautiful burgundy shoe. And while this statement, in my mind, rings truer than true, it is still strange to me the lack of burgundy shoes that you will notice on the shelves of shoe stores/departments. It's funny too, because the most simple design, which could be construed as boring, can also be the most elegant and beautiful, when it comes to a burgundy shoe. With black shoes, I prefer something a little more unique and different, maybe to separate the black from itself, if you know what I mean, so it is not just one continuation. But with a burgundy shoe, like this model here by Corthay, simpler is better. And in all honesty, I am not a huge fan of cap toes, but this model is amazing and I would wear it/buy it in a heartbeat. Imagine it with a navy or medium gray suit. Those combinations, to me, make more sense than paring them with a set of brown shoes, but where can you find a beautiful burgundy shoe under $800? I promise you that on my first collection, my burgundy wholecuts (pictured left) will be available for all of the burgundy lovers out there!!

Pictures Provided By: Leffot

Today's Favorites - Church's Women's Collection

I walk by the Church's store, in Burlington Arcade, every morning and afternoon and am constantly impressed by their women's collection and always baffled by the men's collections. It's like they literally took all of the designer talent and put them onto the women's side of the company. On a constant basis there are always these uniquely fresh new styles on the women's side of the store, but on the men's side, it's the same 'ol boring, black and dark brown cap toes and penny loafers. I can understand that the classic black Church's shoe is a staple piece in the London working man's wardrobe, but a little bit of new designs and colorways would not detract from their image, at least in my mind, it would boost it! Because of that, and the fact that their women's shoes could pass as men's, I figured that I would share some of it with you. It's a shame that I could not find their newest model because it has been the best yet. It reminds me of a Paul Smith shoe really, in that it's classic (a cap toe) but also has it's modern twist by adding perforations throughout the entire upper, so that it does not look like your average, boring cap toe. It's quite nice really. That being, if your wife or girlfriend is looking for some new shoes (that look like men's), then I would steer her in the direction of Church's Spring/Summer 2011 line!

Today's Favorites - Lodger

 

A cap toe with a high-shined cap is always a pleasant thing to see, but when you then add the color green into the mix, it becomes even cooler!! I was just in at Lodger's today and saw some of the new samples that they want to put into production and I was quite impressed. This model here is looking to come in a gray as well as a burgundy, two beautiful options on the color scale. Another exciting model was a wing-cap laced derby boot, that was black but had contrast white stitching. Come to think of it, I just now realized that I had my camera on me and failed to take a picture. What a slacker I am!! Well, I apologize for my absentmindedness but you will have to take my word in regards to the amazingness (I know that this is not a word, but who cares) of the boot. I can't imagine that it wouldn't make it into production, so you will have to be on the look out for it! 

Back to the shoe at hand. You don't see to many green shoes these days but it is always nice when you do. This model here is a great example of having a shoe that can be a different color but not be ostentatious or overly colorful. I really don't see why any businessman could not wear this with a navy suit? It certainly would not scream out, 'look, I am super flashy,' but would on the other hand, in my opinion, say that the gentlemen was a sharp dresser. But hey, baby steps right?? Let's start to see those navy dress shoes on the feet of lots of men before we can start asking for green to be a normal colored shoe.....