Today's Favorites - J.M. Weston

I know that I usually will do a full post on Mondays, but today I moved the majority of my stuff from Brighton to London and am simply too tired to write a 2-3 hour post. I promise, though, that tomorrow I will be back on track with a full post on driving loafers, so be on the look out!!

That aside, I wanted to share with all of you this beautiful spat boot by J.M. Weston. It's not everyday, or any day really, that you see one of these in a store's window, or in the store period for that matter. I mean, obviously, they are not really practical in today's work environment and most people don't have the gumption to walk down the street in a pair of these, so I can't really blame most makers for not actually producing some for their collection. That's why it's nice to see that J.M. Weston, albeit did not commission a line of them, will at least make one on a MTO basis, as they did for the owner of the boots in this top picture.

It's a shame really, that we do not see more dress boots on a normal day-to-day basis, as they used to back in the Edwardian/Victorian era. I do think that they are slightly coming back, but I am still awaiting the day that every shoemaker has a pair in every single fall/winter season that they produce. They can be just as elegant as a regular oxford yet can be even more versatile, as they might go better with your average pair of jeans or more casual outfit where as some oxfords are simply just too dressy. For that reason, I am awaiting the day of their return, and will promise to at least try and make them more popular with my line. But in all honesty, it will only help if there is demand, so if you, the readers, want to see more of these, be vocal about it and it will happen!!

Shoes Of The Week - Corthay

You can never go wrong with a simple and beautiful burgundy shoe. And while this statement, in my mind, rings truer than true, it is still strange to me the lack of burgundy shoes that you will notice on the shelves of shoe stores/departments. It's funny too, because the most simple design, which could be construed as boring, can also be the most elegant and beautiful, when it comes to a burgundy shoe. With black shoes, I prefer something a little more unique and different, maybe to separate the black from itself, if you know what I mean, so it is not just one continuation. But with a burgundy shoe, like this model here by Corthay, simpler is better. And in all honesty, I am not a huge fan of cap toes, but this model is amazing and I would wear it/buy it in a heartbeat. Imagine it with a navy or medium gray suit. Those combinations, to me, make more sense than paring them with a set of brown shoes, but where can you find a beautiful burgundy shoe under $800? I promise you that on my first collection, my burgundy wholecuts (pictured left) will be available for all of the burgundy lovers out there!!

Pictures Provided By: Leffot

Today's Favorites - Church's Women's Collection

I walk by the Church's store, in Burlington Arcade, every morning and afternoon and am constantly impressed by their women's collection and always baffled by the men's collections. It's like they literally took all of the designer talent and put them onto the women's side of the company. On a constant basis there are always these uniquely fresh new styles on the women's side of the store, but on the men's side, it's the same 'ol boring, black and dark brown cap toes and penny loafers. I can understand that the classic black Church's shoe is a staple piece in the London working man's wardrobe, but a little bit of new designs and colorways would not detract from their image, at least in my mind, it would boost it! Because of that, and the fact that their women's shoes could pass as men's, I figured that I would share some of it with you. It's a shame that I could not find their newest model because it has been the best yet. It reminds me of a Paul Smith shoe really, in that it's classic (a cap toe) but also has it's modern twist by adding perforations throughout the entire upper, so that it does not look like your average, boring cap toe. It's quite nice really. That being, if your wife or girlfriend is looking for some new shoes (that look like men's), then I would steer her in the direction of Church's Spring/Summer 2011 line!

Carreducker Interview

As many of you may already know, I am located at Gieves & Hawkes, just a spitting distance away from the new home of bespoke shoemakers James Ducker and Deborah Carre, whom make up the duo known as Carreducker. Them being such an easy target and good friends of mine, I figured that with the launch of the new store layout (which includes the Carreducker's, myself and many other interesting things) at Gieves and Hawkes on Savile Row, it would be a good time to give them the interview spotlight in order to tell us how their transition has been going!

As they have been readers of my blog, for quite some time now, it was an honor to have finally met them (when I came to England) and to have found out that I would be working so close to them. As an aspiring shoemaker myself, you can imagine how opportunistic it is for me to be near them. All of the answers to my questions are just 20 feet away (6 meters). That being, here is their interview, which I had presented to them to be answered individually. Enjoy!

1. How long have you been involved in shoemaking/shoe design?

Deborah Carre: I've always had a passion for design and studied design at university - I have a BA Hons in fashion design and marketing and worked with RE Trickers to produce my final collection; whilst working I did part-time pattern cutting, fashion illustration and handsewn shoemaking courses; before then taking up a four year apprenticeship in handsewn shoemaking.

James Ducker:  I STARTED IN 1992 IN BARCELONA DOING EVENING CLASSES AND CONTINUED MAKING IN MY SPARE TIME. I RETURNED TO LONDON IN 1998 TO START AN APPRENTICESHIP WITH JOHN LOBB LTD.


2. What was it that made you decide that you wanted to get into shoemaking/shoe design?

DC: Accessories interest me because of the constraints of scale and proportion...plus I have always loved men's shoes.  When I was deciding what to do for my final collection at college I identified a gap in the market for a combination of craft and design. I approached RE Trickers to sponsor my collection of unisex box calf, handsewn boots. I was fortunate enough to work closely with their head of production and bespoke maker. I was attracted to the combination of working with my head and hands - problem solving - and enjoyed the experience so much that when I left college, I continued to study part time and then won a QEST scholarship to do an apprenticeship.

JD: SERENDIPITY REALLY. I HAPPENED UPON THE CLASSES AND FELL IN LOVE WITH IT

3. Most English shoemakers are very conservative in their look (shoe design) yet you tend to be a bit more creative and unique in your styling. Why break the traditional English mold?

DC: I can't help it - I have Sark and American blood in me!  No seriously that is why James and I are such a good design team, he tempers my extravagances and I push him outside his comfort zone. English people are renown for their eccentricity - and James and I don't go crazy, we just like good style and design.

JD: A NUMBER OF REASONS REALLY. IT IS OUR NATURAL AESTHETIC TO DESIGN THE WAY WE DO. YOU HAVE TO BE TRUE TO YOUR SELF AS A DESIGNER AND THEN HOPE THAT CUSTOMERS LIKE YOUR STYLE AND BUY INTO IT. IT SETS US APART FROM OUR COMPETITORS. BEING JUST LIKE THEM WOULD NOT HELP US. IT BRINGS THE CRAFT INTO THE 21ST CENTURY BY MARRYING ANCIENT CRAFT SKILLS WITH A MODERN DESIGN ETHOS
 
4. What is your favorite color? Favorite color on a shoe?

DC: My favourite colour is french navy...and my favourite colour in a shoe...well I am going through a blue phase at the moment so it would have to be pale blue nubuck for a summer derby.

JD:  I LOVE COLOUR IN GENERAL, BUT I LIKE IT USED SPARINGLY IN ALONGSIDE MORE NEUTRAL TONES. IT'S COMBINATIONS OF COLOURS THAT I REALLY LIKE. THIS IS TRUE FOR SHOES AS WELL. NAVY BLUE IS MY CURRENT FAVOURITE BUT THAT COULD CHANGE!

5. What is your favorite model out of Carreducker's collection?

DC: I love the boots we did for Guy Hills in his own The Dashing Dashing Tweeds and claret lizard skin. It was one of the first fabric/leather combinations we did. I LOVE boots and the mix of fabric and leather is playful but stylish.

JD: MEN'S SHOE IS PROBABLY THE SADDLE BOOT AND LADIES IS THE DIETRICH

 6. You recently moved into Gieves & Hawkes, how has the transition help/affected Carreducker's business?

DC: On a positive note we are very privileged to be one of Gieves & Hawkes partners and turning the corner at 1 Savile Row never fails to put a smile on my face. And it all came about through a sequence of serendipitous meetings...one of those moments of everything coming together in a positive way.  It has offered us unprecedented access to bespoke enthusiasts; an unbeatable address; and exposure to customers who would not know of us otherwise. The only negative is that we are incredibly distracted and the speed of our making at Gieves suffers; and we have to be much better organised about our workload/tools etc. (which is actually a very good thing)

JD: ITS BEEN FANTASTIC. ORDERS HAVE INCREASED AND WE ARE SEEING THE RIGHT CLIENTS AND THEY ARE SEEING OUR SHOES. ITS THE PERFECT MARRIAGE REALLY, BESPOKE SUITS AND SHOES UNDER ONE ROOF!

7. What is the hardest thing about being a bespoke shoemaker? Subsequently, what is the most rewarding?


DC: You have to be fit and to stay physically fit - I hurt both elbows pulling a student's lasts in January and still have very painful tendinitis; when it goes wrong  there is no make do and mend. If the seam rips when you are taking the lasts out of a pair of customer shoes you have to start all over again - so we never tell a customer their shoes are ready until we have pulled the lasts. The rewards are simple - the satisfaction of finishing a pair of shoes well and seeing a customer (particularly one with discomfort) walk away happy in a pair of shoes we have made.

JD: THE HARDEST THING IS MAKING NO MONEY FOR YEARS AND YEARS. MY ADVICE TO THOSE WHO ASK IS DO IT FOR THE PASSION OF SHOEMAKING, BECAUSE YOU LOVE IT. THE MOST REWARDING THING IS THE CRAFT ITSELF, MAKING SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL AND EMINENTLY PRACTICAL.

8.You offer a course where you teach people how to make a pair of shoes, how many people (that you know of) have gone on the continue the trade?

DC: At least nine students have continued making; one is doing an apprenticeship, two have set up their own workshops; five more are still making for friends and family; and one is making for a hobby.

JD: WE HAVE AT LEAST 5 WHO ARE MAKING A SERIOUS GO OF IT AND 1 OTHER WHO HAS SET UP A WORKSHOP FOR HIS OWN PLEASURE.

9. What do you hope to see unfold in the shoe industry within the next 10 years?

DC: A greater understanding of handsewn and the difference between handsewn and hand made; a greater appreciation for true craft; a move away from manufacturing in China and a return to English-made shoes.

JD: THE GROWTH OF BESPOKE SHOES, AS PEOPLE SEE THE BENEFIT OF MEETING THE PERSON WHO IS GOING TO MAKE THEIR SHOES; OF KNOWING THE PROVENANCE OF THE LEATHERS ETC; OF BEING INVOLVED IN THE DESIGN; AND OF WEARING WONDERFUL SHOES THAT FIT THEM PROPERLY. IN GENERAL A MOVE TO QUALITY OVER QUANTITY IN MANUFACTURED SHOES. 1 DECENT PAIR INSTEAD OF 3 RUBBISH ONES.  

10. And advice for aspiring shoemakers/shoe designers?

  
DC: Only do it if you love it 

JD: BE PASSIONATE AND TENACIOUS. IT CAN BE DONE - JUST LOOK AT DEBORAH AND I 

Well, thank you to the two of you, it's a pleasure as always. I hope that all of you enjoyed the interview. Posted below are a few pics of some of their new styles that they have done in collaboration with Gieves & Hawkes. 

Until next time,

-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"

 

 

Today's Favorites - Braided Shoes By Sutor Mantellassi

When it comes to braided shoes, I have always been really hit or miss with them, which is how I perceive most people to also be. It seems that I either really like them or really hate them. So, as you can imagine, these one's here by Sutor Mantellassi are one of the few that I actually appreciate. The fact that the braid is relatively small and that they are a plain toe allows me to appreciate the actual braid without being distracted by anything else. I am not sure if that made sense, but I feel like most shoes with braided upper's are so distracting but this one seems to be more discreet, in a way. Since, I have been in England, however, I have yet to see one gentleman wearing a braided shoe. Maybe they are not so liked here, as they are in the States? You would think that they would be though as there are rules to what a English gentleman should and should not wear. And being that I can't imagine the flip-flop being a big hit with the old conservatives, I would think that a nice casual dress shoe such as this would be the perfect answer to summer wear. Maybe I am wrong?

On another note, I have collected the rest of my shoes that were left behind in Italy (mostly trainers) and am going to be getting the rest of my shoes that were left behind in the States (mostly dress shoes and Sperry's) so in one month's time, I will have ALL of my shoes in one place!! This will allow me to get back onto to taking more pictures of my stuff for all of you to see and judge me on!! And one of those shoes, just so happens to be a nice pair of Allen Edmonds, which are braided. Enjoy the rest of your Sunday!!

Shoes Of The Week - Mark Guyot

I must admit, before coming to England, I had never even heard of the butterfly loafer. I am not familiar with any American makers that produce one (unless Allen Edmonds has recently caught on) nor did I have a run-in during my short but sweet time in Italy. But now that I am here, in the heart of Mayfair, where there are all of the arcade's that host space to the likes of New & Lingwood and George Cleverley, I cannot seem to get away from the butterfly loafer. But I like it, it's unique, it's produces a nice medium between plain, boring loafer and over the top. Said to be originally designed by the likes of Mr. George Cleverley himself, it has since evolved as seen here, by French maker Marc Guyot.

One thing that I particularly like about this version of the butterfly loafer, is the fact that French makers tend to design the vamp so that it extends much higher up the foot, towards the ankle. For me, it is much more elegant looking although it does have the downfall of not showing as much sock, which can be a shame when you are trying to pull of out fancy, dandy outfit! We are rumored to be getting a burgundy pair of the classic, George Cleverley designed butterfly loafer sometime in May, here at Gieves & Hawkes. So, since I do not have one nor a burgundy loafer (something that I have been longing for) I am holding out for those! If only the French makers were more readily available here in England, things would be different. But I cannot afford to fly to Paris just to get a pair of shoes, not yet at least!

Today's Favorites - The Generic Man

When the sun is out, trainers are in! And considering that it has been quite nice here in the South of England, I am more and more grabbing my trainers to wear on my days off. So, in honor of all of this beautiful weather that we have been having, I figured that I would switch it up today, with some casual shoes. The shoes shown here are part of The Generic Man's Spring 2011 line up and while I am normally not a huge fan of this type of sole (when attempted to be paired with a dress shoe), I actually think that it compliments the rest of the shoe quite well. The more I notice shoes that I like, the more I see that classic (or plain) but with a modern twist fits into every liking that I have. This shoe, relatively simple in it's design, is the perfect example of something quite plain but with a few added details that makes it unique and intriguing, such as the piping, the linen upper and the brown welt on top of the white foam sole. These little things that you may not think about are what gives this shoe 'a presence,' thus differentiating it from every other Spring 2011 shoe that might be similar. The details, the details, the details..........

Pictures Provide By: The Shoe Buff