A Shoe's Shape

Up until recently, I always focused my attention on design (i.e. pattern - wing tip, cap toe, color, details etc.) when deciding whether or not I liked a shoe, not ever really paying attention to the shape, even though it played a big part (if not the biggest) in my decision making process. But now, having made shoes and with my introduction into self-taught shoe design, I have come to appreciate shape on a whole new level. It's funny how one could have never come to this realization until they started to actually play around with the design or construction aspects. I could have been a shoe enthusiast my entire life having not ever attempted to get into the construction side of things and I may have never come to know, that I truly like a shoe because of it's shape, not because of it's pattern, color, style etc. 

Shoe At Top: Foster & Son
Shoe Above: Vass 

You start to notice when you begin drawing on paper, that a shoe can turn out real ugly and disproportionate if the shape is not drawn perfectly. And it is truly difficult to do so. The slightest variation in pencil movement can be a deal breaker. And the same goes in the world of last making, which is essentially design in 3-D. Every little curve on the last is monumental when it comes to the form of the final product. And more importantly than getting a nice shape, is creating the correct proportions, because if the proportions are off, then the shoe will never look nice, no matter how elegant the curves are. This being said, I have been wanting to change the shape of my last for some time now because I am growing quite bored of the shape that it is, considering that I will have made 6 pairs on that same last. So when I do finally finish my 6th pair, hopefully in February, I will change the shape of my last before I continue on with my 7th pair. Ideally, I would love for it to look like the shoe at the top of the page but I am not sure if my last-shaving/adding skills are quite that good. We shall see!

Shoes Above: Anthony Delos

If you were like me and never really thought about how important a shoe's shape is, then I am afraid that after reading this you might become a shape snob, just as I have. These days I won't even give a shoe a second look if it's shape is not specific to my standards. But I am happy that I am now like this because in the past I feel like I bought/acquired shoes based on their looks (you know what I mean) and now have shoes sitting in my closet that I wish I could tear the soles off of, take apart the upper and remake them!

Shoes Below: Gaziano & Girling

4 Shoe Essentials For Autumn

This summer has been quite interesting with it's record highs and record lows and yet while it is still only the beginning of September, I am ready for autumn to come! I love the sun and being warm but I have never appreciated the simplicity of dressing in the summer. Instead, I have always loved seeing all of the intricate and uniquely layered outfits that are created in the autumn and winter seasons. That being, there are several staple shoes that I believe belong in every man's wardrobe to be able to pull off some of these outfits!

1. Some Sort Of Boot

While #1 would appear to be extremely vague, I have no intentions telling all of the men in the world that they need just one style, so I leave it to you to decide which type of boot would appeal best to your clothing. For me, this Sebago boot (or shoe-boot) is just the thing that would enhance my wardrobe 5 times. There are already so many outfits that I can think of to create with the incorporation of this shoe into my wardrobe. This boot falls under that upcoming rugged category of shoe that is finding it's way onto the shelves of clothing stores across the nation. It seems to be a resurgence in that Red Wing-esque type of look although I personally believe that Sebago has taken this idea and enhanced it by leaving out the rugged sole and heaviness of the shoe. So whatever boot that you choose, make sure that it will fit into "your look" and wardrobe. If not you will find yourself stuck either needing to buy more clothes (which is fine if you can afford it) or having the dilemma of a shoe that does not match your clothes.

2. Dark Brown Suede Shoe










Left Shoes: Alden, photo compliments of Leather Soul
Right Shoes: Anthony Delos
Bottom Shoes: John Lobb

Whether it be a chukka boot, a leather soled loafer or a full on dress style, every man needs a dark brown suede shoe in their autumn line up! Contrary to what you may think about suede, a dark brown suede shoe is a must have for the autumn season, even if it rains every day. Like I have said before, if you protect your shoes right by using the proper applications and by avoiding heavy puddles and extra rainy days, your suede will be able to manage through a wet season and give your autumn outfits some extra depth. While autumn does bring it's fair share of intriguing outfits, it also brings an abundance of monotone inspired outfits. What's great about a dark brown suede shoe is that it's color and texture make for a great compliment to the many fabrics and colors that you see being offered each year for the autumn/winter collections within the clothing side of things.

3.Gray Sneaker












Left Shoes: Gourmet
Right Shoes: A.P.C.

A gray sneaker is a must-have period!! It goes great during every season. It just goes best in the autumn. Like the brown suede, a medium gray really compliments the colors of clothing being offered in autumn/winter. When you think about it, there is really no color that a gray cannot compliment. You can even wear different color grays within your outfit and as long as you don't go overboard on the amount of different shades, it can look great! It's such an easy thing to overlook but once you have a gray shoe in your collection, you will notice just how often you go to reach for it since it's versatility is limitless!! I have added a couple pictures above as well as added a picture of the pair that I wear, here. Another nice option is on the post below by John Lobb. So really folks, if you don't have a gray sneaker yet, go find yourself one!! You will thank me later.

4. A Black Dress Shoe











Left Shoes: Gaziano & Girling
Right Shoes: Vass

Considering the weather is usually at it's worst (in terms of wetness) during the autumn, a nice black dress shoe is an essential piece in the working man's closet. Being able to hide wear and tear on a black shoe is much easier than on a tan or light colored shoe. Rain spots don't tend to show as easily and it is next to impossible to darken a black shoe from excessive water exposure. So when you start breaking out your gray and black suits for the autumn, it only makes sense to have a staple black shoe that you can pair them with. Even better would be to have two pair, that way you can rotate them and let each one breath for at least a day. If you have one that's slightly more casual, say a derby or a wingtip, then it also makes for an easy transitional shoe coming from work to going out on the town.

That being said, if you pack away your summer wardrobe to make way for your autumn pieces, make sure that you have at least these four essentials and you will be set for your shoes! And if you are lacking in one or maybe two, then it's time to start investing!!!

Shoe Of The Day

This shoe is possibly one of my all-time favorite shoes that I have encountered. The perfection of it is mind boggling and needless to say that this modern version of a spat inspired style is beauty at its finest! The shoe is by Laszlo Vass and I believe that this was a bespoke shoe made for a customer of his. All of the elements in this shoe came together so beautifully to make something that can be so common, stand out e.g. the slanted nose, the brogueing around the top of the vamp and the fact that the vamp is one piece without any heel counters. I could go on and on about how much I love this shoe but I will leave it to you to come up with what you may or may not like about this model.